Journeyed to Hunedoara on June 26, about a 2 1/2 hours drive from Cluj. Hunedoara is a VERY historic area. The city's main attraction is the medieval castle of a 15th century prince of Transylvania called Iancu of Hunedoara. He was an military genius who played an important role in defeating the Turks in their attempt to expand into Europe. At first sight of the castle, all I could think was, that we were going back to medieval times!!! It was easy to imagine black knights astride massive black stallions cantering up the drawbridge to the gigantic castle doors. We walked up the same bridge, over a river, and through the doors into this 15th century castle, but alas, we were greeted by women in frumpy house dresses who took our money and pointed the way to go through the castle. In other words, "follow the arrows."

Hunedoara Castle

The architecture was gothic in parts and simply incredibly indescribable in others! Passageways were endless. Staircases wound up and down leading to rooms that overlooked private little courtyards or the river surrounding the castle. It was fabulous!! The final room we visited was a HUGE, rectangular, gothic style room, dubbed appropriately enough, the "knight's room," and was resplendent with marble walls and large windows. I could envision knights colors and coats-of-arms draped from tall arches. The room was also missing the "required," gigantic knight's table with men of valor pulling apart and devouring roasted chicken and pig while swilling down mugs of potent ale, delivered of course by raven-haired, black-eyed, dancing gypsy girls!

Romania is missing a good bet by not promoting this medieval castle! I think there were about 5 other visitors there at the same time we were. There needs to be guides in period costumes. They should also look for authentic period furniture and furnish most of the rooms, since only a small bit of furniture was in the castle, and none of it original. This castle could come alive with 15th century music, people dressed in all sorts of period costumes, knights on horses, banners and coats of arms.

Hope y'all had a great Fourth! We were supposed to go Sat to an embassy picnic for all the Americans in Cluj, but we decided we didn't want to sit around in fields of hay, especially since some of us, including me, are having horrible allergic reactions to all the grass being cut for hay around here! So, we sat around the Goodwin's house, played "patriotic" country western music (when the Star Spangled Banner came on, we all stood with hand over heart ;-)) and did laundry. Victoria has a washing machine, big luxury, but the Romanian clothes dryer did my back in! The RO clothes dryer consists of two parallel lines, attached from a pole at the back of the house at one end. The other end is a few meters away, and the lines make their way over a garden of veggies, etc., and are finally attached onto a pole in front of the pig pen (no kidding). Two piggies are being raised by Maria, the little bunica (grandmother) who lives in a couple of rooms in the basement of the Goodwin's house. She also raises chickens for their eggs as well as for eating later. One other note, Bunica Maria is nearly 80 years old and she is sharp as a tack and lively as a spring chicken. Her crystal blue eyes sparkle with life and fun! Even though the house does have indoor plumbing upstairs, Bunica Maria's rooms are not so equipped, and even if they did, she would probably still prefer the outhouse adjacent to the piggies.

Anyway, I really strained my back and pulled some muscles when I was hanging my clothes, sheets and towels on the lines because I had to strrr-r-r-r-reee-e-e-e-ettt-t-t-t-tch to reach the second line to keep from stepping on the plants in the garden. I could barely get out of bed Sunday, and missed going out to our favorite village church with the Goodwins. I'm feeling a little better today, but barely. It's still difficult to stand up once I've been sitting for a while. I've got a definite "hitch in my git along!" :-) I gotta stay away from those *dangerous* Romanian clothes dryers! Ah, but nothing smells quite a clean as clothes fresh from the outdoors! It's amazing they don't pick up the piggy and chicken smells. Hmmmmm, maybe they do and I just don't know it.

View from Zan's Apartment

Sitting in the flat I'm renting for the summer, nursing my bad back, everyday scenes and sounds in Romania are filtering through my head, and I revel in the familiar sites and sounds of the Romania I've come to know and love. The reverberating "whomp, whomp, whomp" of a woman beating her carpets lets me know some serious housecleaning is happening. The squeal of little girls calling to one another, "Haide! Fuge, fuge!" (Come on, run, run!) and I am reminded that little girls are always going to be little girls 'round the world. The boys shriek and tease the girls, carry sticks like swords, and squirt water at friends with their squirt guns. Boys will be boys no matter what. I hear teenage feet bounding up the cement stairs in the hallway, or scurrying rapidly down the stairs as only Romanian teenage boys know how to do. They literally slide on their feet down the cement stairs You have to see this to appreciate it. I've dubbed it the "Romanian shuffle," and as far as I know, Romanian boys, teenagers and young men are the only ones who have mastered the "Romanian shuffle." I listen as a woman walks slowly up the stairs and by the "clack, clack" of her shoes I know that this woman is carrying several bags of groceries home for that night's dinner. I can hear a baby crying from across the courtyard. A young woman is walking briskly home with a bouquet of flowers and as always, the bouquet is carried the "Romanian way", stems pointing upward, flowers down.

The evening brings people out on their balconies and I see men doing the "manly thing," drinking beer or tuica (pronounced tsweeka) a very potent, homemade plum brandy that makes your eyes water and scorches the throat all the way down! Children are out in the courtyard, winding down their day by kicking a ball back and forth, the final rays of the sun dance on their hair, coloring each little head a flaxen gold. Young men and women meet outside and are content going on long walks hand-in-hand, or to "hang out" with their friends or seeing the "latest" movie (6 months to a year old) from America or Germany or Italy at one of the 5 or 6 movie theaters in town. You've got to see the movie quickly because they always change the movies on Friday. The honk of a car's horn brings heads popping out, necks craning from windows or balconies to see if it's a friend calling for them. Across the way, TV's spring to life and lamps are turned off leaving only the soft glow of the TV reflecting the only light in the room. Voices seem to travel more clearly in the evening and I've heard couples talking, laughing as well as arguing. Ah well, life is life everywhere.

Saturdays are wedding days! Generally every Saturday, a young men and women are getting married all over Cluj, and the three huge, 8 story buildings that make up this block, are no exception. Brightly decorated cars arrive in front of the bride or groom's building and men and women pile out of flower bedecked cars. Many of the men have musical instruments, horns, guitars, accordions, and the music begins as they wind their way up the stairway, singing and playing their instruments to the flat of the bride or groom. They stay and celebrate at the flat for quite a while. Music echoes everywhere, bouncing lively tunes all around the buildings. Laughter flows freely and the singing gets louder as the wedding party escorts the one about to be married down to a waiting car. Everyone piles back into the cars and off they go to the church, horns blaring, the bridal party singing. People on the streets stop and gawk, waving to the passing cars and shout their best wishes and congratulations.

Life is life, and I am joined into this "family" situation in the blocks of flats. Windows are all open to greet the summer weather. Men and women alike can be seen on their balconies shaking out colorful small rugs, blankets, towels and just about anything else that needs a good shaking and cleaning. Young people usually will stop their play and greet their elders passing nearby. With great respect they will nod their heads and say, "Sarut mina" (I kiss your hand) and go back to their games. Young and old men alike greet women with the same greeting. Women greet each other in the halls or on the sidewalks and streets with "Servus" (hello) or "Buna ziua" (good day). Smells drift into the flat from every corner of the block with meals cooking for dinner, bread baking, all mixing strangely enough with "Benzina" (gas) emissions from the Dacias (Romanian cars) down in the courtyard. Everyone knows what everyone else is doing. Of great particular interest is the American doamna (woman) who is staying here for the summer, in Doamnesoara (Miss) Silvia Tinica's flat. The block managers, an elderly couple who live one floor above my flat, have told me that any time I need help with anything, to please come knock on the door. I'm always greeted by them with a cheery "Buna ziua." Everyone is curious about what I put out on the line at my flat after doing laundry in the bathtub.

This is everyday life in Romania. Simple. Unhurried. For some strange reason, I am totally comfortable and at home in these surroundings, even with all the irritating inconveniences such as having to fiddle with the little rubber ball and drain stopper in the toilet tank with each and every flush! Or being without hot water every night from 11 till 7 in the morning. Then there are the endless hours of trying to complete basic tasks, the beggars on the streets tug at my heart, and the Gypsies who can and will steal you blind become most irksome. Romania is the country however that God has, in His mysterious way and "infinite humor," seen fit to sear into my heart. He has given me the privilege of knowing and loving the Romanian people. I do believe that I echo the sentiments of those brave souls who have been called to Romania before us and those who will certainly be drawn to Romania long after, when I tell you, "We are truly blessed beyond our wildest imaginations."

Cu mult drag. . . (With much love)

Zan

Down the trail with Zan to Volume V ...
or go back and check out the St. Philothea Mission page.