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Restoration started on July 18, 1998. Page last updated: May 7, 2000 The first process of restoring your car is to have a good pictorial reference. I accomplished this with my digital camera and call these photographs "before" shots. They will be used, if needed, for restored component assembly. The restoration of my car will begin with the raw frame and continue with components of the engine, transmission, clutch, suspension, drive train, brakes, steering, wheels, bumpers, splash plates, fenders, running boards, body, interior upholstery and miscellaneous. This seems like a logical progression for the restoration. It could change though! Though I have most of the original parts, I may have to resort to a few reproduction parts. Eventually the reproduction parts will be replaced with original stock. One of the first items on the agenda was to find a 1928 engine since
the engine in my car was a 1930. I have found the engine block and it is
being shipped. Now, as I restore the frame, I am also looking for the 1928
engine components (carburetor, water pump etc.), but, the 1930 components
will be restored and used until I find original replacements.
Frame
- Because of the humidity, this took several day to complete. After
sand blasting, the frame was painted with a self-etching metal primer.
This will be sealed with a primer sealer prior to the final coat of chassis
black.
Engine
- 08/28/98 - The engine is nearly complete. All that remains is the carburetor.,
water pump, oil pump and oil return pipe. before moving on to the flywheel,
transmission and clutch.
The carburetor presented many problems. Rust had fused the secondary
well and fuel adjusting needle housing to the lower body. I found
another Zenith-1 carburetor and will work on solutions for repairing the
original carb.
Transmission
- The Transmission was checked for worn, pitted and cracked gears.
All bearings were replaced. Most of the U joint and Gear shift housing
bolts were not correct and had to be replaced. For the most part, I was
lucky with this little project!.
Suspension - The
front springs on this car were weak and needed to be replaced. I
installed a set of reproduction springs that fit nicely and are exactly
like originals.
For the rear springs, I followed the standard procedure for reconditioning.
First I sand blasted the unit, using extra fine sand, while it was
assembled. Next I disassembled the entire unit and cleaned the underside
of each leaf spring. Prior to assembly, "Slip Plate" (a graphite
lubricating spray sold at any John Deer dealer) was used on the under side
of each leaf. Once assembled, I hand brushed the springs with chassis
black paint. One coat will have the effect of the original finish.
Drive train
- After the bearings, races and grease seals were replaced, I was able
to set bearing preload and backlash. Notice the slotted drain and
filler plugs used during a brief period in late 1928. After final assembly,
the rear axle housing was painted with two coats of chassis black to achieve
that original factory look.
Steering - The steering
presented no problems what so ever other than the enormous amount of time
spent cleaning and preparing for final paint. The smooth feel of
the steering column shaft and sector gear (7 tooth) assemblies will provide
a better driving experience. Make sure that you save and reuse the
brass shims located between the steering column housing and lower steering
shaft bearing. Replace the steering bearings and upper and lower bushings
and steering worm sector thrust washer if needed. Check the
ball of the pitman arm for wear, replace or build up with weld and reshape
if required. The tennis shoes in this first shot are beyond repair
and will have to be replaced.
Wheels
Splash plates
Body
Miscellaneous
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