We must be in a rut. Up again at 5:30. Enjoyed sunrise and took time for church this morning. We read the Sunday scriptures and discussed them for a bit. Anchors up 0655. Shortly after we left the anchorage about 5-6 dolphins surfaced and swam by the WE BE BLEST III. We had hoped they would play in our wake, but we were probably not going fast enough. Later we saw a couple more. We have heard that dolphins often follow the Camanos. We’ll need to find out their optimum "cruising speed." Camano owners, let us know!

We cruised past Pensacola, Navarre, Ft. Walton Beach and Destin and saw many homes damaged by Ivan. Windows, doors, and walls were blown in and houses gutted. Some had collapsed. Others had corners of the building blown away. Of course, blue tarps covered many of them. Today we saw a number of large boats that had washed up on shore. Some had lodged between several tall trees. It looked almost impossible for the boat to get in there.

A number of the marinas in these areas were closed or damaged quite severely. The commercial and private docks did not fare well at all. Many of them were blown apart, boards missing, pilings askew, boat lifts twisted every which way. It would seem that roofers, carpenters, and dock builders can come to the area and find constant work. There is so much to be repaired. I'm sure it’s this way as well in the other parts of Florida ravaged by this year’s hurricanes.

We crossed Choctawhatchee Bay this afternoon. It’s huge -- 40 miles long and 3-5 miles wide. Previously we had plotted GPS points over the long stretches, so the Captain had the autopilot take us from point to point. Around 1:00 in the afternoon, I had been getting some lunch ready to take up to the fly bridge. All of a sudden Captain Gene walked into the cabin. I looked up at him and asked: "Who’s driving the boat?" "Auto is," he replied, keeping a close eye out the cabin windows. "The only problem with him, is that he doesn’t stop for a man overboard!" Soon we both returned to the bridge to enjoy the beautiful day of cruising on calm waters. We anchored at mm 252, on the east side of the causeway bridge to Santa Rosa Island. This is a very open anchorage, but the winds are calm tonight so we’re OK.

We should be at Carabelle Tuesday afternoon. This is where we’ll wait for our good weather window to make our open water crossing down the 90 miles to Horseshoe Bend. Then the next day we’ll have another open water run to Crystal River, and a third day to Tarpon Springs. Today would have been a great day to do it (had we been there). NOAA weather radio reported the waves at only 1’ in that area. Hopefully we won’t have to wait too long for calm seas.

Postscript to the Ironman: Daron and Kayla said they are thinking about competing in the Half Ironman at Disney World in Orlando next May. "Two weeks after the race and we’re already resigned to halfs," Daron bemoaned. "Yes, but at least you'll have a life," I replied. He agreed!

Mm252 74 miles

We certainly rocked last night in this anchorage. The winds picked up, changed direction and rocked the WE BE BLEST III all night long -- a bit like sleeping in a cradle. The captain crashed early last night around 8pm since he was bushed from the days motoring. So he was up early again -- around 5am. He had hoped to leave about a half hour before sunrise, to see what the visibility would be like at that time. This would be helpful information in case we needed to stretch the waning daylight hours on the open water crossing. Actually we had good visibility with the anchor up at 0541; sunrise was at 0605.

Today was like a Jacque Cousteau adventure through St. Andrew’s Bay near Panama City and on into the winding cypress swamps. We saw eagles, white and black marsh pelicans, a big alligator sunning himself on the bank (our first on this trip), and quite a few dolphins. Several times the dolphins swam under the WE BE BLEST III and followed in our wake. A mother and young dolphin swam at the side of the boat for a long time, riding up and down the wake, rolling over and under each other. Later a single dolphin followed us and twice jumped out of the water and over the wake. We were running at about 9mph.

We had hoped to stop at Panama City Marina to get charts of the Big Bend, find a restaurant for lunch and get provisions. However, when the Captain asked where to dock the boat, the employee was not very friendly, would only allow us an hour docking and it was on a finger pier where it was very difficult to secure the boat without banging into the concrete pilings. An hour was hardly enough time to get lunch, let alone provisioning. They did not have the charts we needed, so we decided to just leave. The cruise books talked about the friendly, helpful staff there. Well, that must have been the other shift! A bit bummed by their unfriendliness, the Mate decided next year we’ll try the marinas on Grand Lagoon. Perhaps we’ll be more welcome there.

When we do come back we will probably go out to the Gulf from Panama City and head over to Crooked Island, which is claimed to be one of the most beautiful anchorages on the Gulf Coast. Then we can cruise east to St. Joseph Bay, a great area for beaches and scallops. YUM!

Around mm330 we started peeking into some oxbows in the narrow channel, looking for an anchorage for the night. The cruise book indicated there were several good spots along here. Well, nosing into the first oxbow we ran aground. Heading into the second and third, we had not even gotten out of the channel, and we were running out of water quickly, so we backed out of those. So much for those great anchorages. Another bum steer from this cruising guide! Finally at 1615, just before we entered Lake Wimico at mm335 we tried the last oxbow. This one had deep water. We were able to anchor in 12’ with a bow and stern anchor since the channel was quite narrow. There were some floating cabins farther up the channel and after sunset two outboards with fishermen motored past us and back to the cabins for the night. This is really a neat spot, very protected. Tall pines and cypress trees line the bank and reflect in the still water. Reflecting on our difficulty in finding an anchorage, it was a good thing that we did not stop at Panama City for a couple hours as we had planned. The days are getting shorter and we would have been in the dark without a suitable stopping point. God’s plan is better than ours -- even though we mumble and grumble at times!

Tomorrow we’ll stop in Apalachicola, and then head to Carrabelle. It sounds like the weather is not cooperating -- 3-6’ seas until at least the weekend. So we’ll wait it out at Carabelle.

Mm335 84 miles

Anchors up at 0746 -- now in Eastern Time since we passed White City yesterday afternoon. We motored the 16 miles to Apalachicola and pulled into the Scipio Creek Marina. Our plans were to grab some lunch and get provisions, then head to Carrabelle. Upon talking with folks, we discovered that St. George Sound probably had 4’ seas and it would not have been a comfortable 32 mile crossing to Carrabelle. So we took a slip for the night.

Walked to the grocery store about a mile away, had lunch, washed the boat, then rode our bikes around town so the mate could get in some shopping time. She’s been deprived much too long -- she needed to shop!

As we brought our bikes back to the boat, two folks came up to us asking if we were from the WE BE BLEST. It was Jack and Joyce from ALMOST PURFICT. We had met them on the Tennessee River. We chatted, had some wine on their boat and dinner at Papa Joe’s at the marina. Great fresh seafood -- oysters, grouper, scallops YUM! They will be at Centennial Marina in Ft. Myers this winter. We’re meeting more and more folks who will be wintering over in our area.

Mm 352 16 miles

Each day we called Buddy, the weather Guru, at the Carrabelle Marina to hear his take on crossing St. George Sound to Carrabelle. Finally, the winds shifted away from the NE and we planned to make the crossing on Friday morning.

During our stay at Scipio Creek Marina, we wandered in and out of the small shops, ate seafood, and met more of the Loopers, sharing boating stories and experiences at marinas and in anchorages. Charles, the owner of the marina, brought each boat about a two pound bag of fresh steamed shrimp. He also had a shrimp processing plant nearby. Were they great!

Jim and Jo Ann on LONG HAUL will be wintering in Florida and might give us a call to come see OBV. Howard and Sandra were on FOURTH DAY. When the Mate asked if they were cursillistas, people who have made a cursillio (a three day walk with Christ--similar to a retreat), they surprisingly said yes. Only twice before had anyone known the significance of the term "fourth day" -- it is the rest of one’s life after the three day cursillo. Thursday we invited Jack and Joyce on the WE BE BLEST III for a glass of wine which stretched to a pasta dinner. For some reason, the Mate had just cooked a pot of spaghetti sauce that day. We seem to have a lot in common with them. We’ll try to get together this winter.

We left Apalachicola at 0835. Jack was thinking of running the open water crossing from Carrabelle to Steinhatchee with us, but he was not ready to leave this morning, so we headed out on our own. The weather was stormy and the seas a bit rough, but for the most part we were able to skirt the lightening and thunderstorms as they moved around us. We arrived at Carrabelle at 1145 and took a slip. Our weather window for the gulf crossing was opening tomorrow, so we walked to the grocery store to get some last minute provisions.

We called Jack to let him know we were leaving early the next morning. He had decided to do the long crossing from Apalachicola to Clearwater with a group of boaters at Scipio Creek Marina. This was a 172 statute mile crossing, usually begun around 3pm and ending early the next morning. We did not want to do the 17 hour night-time crossing our first time. That’s why we chose to break it up into three segments, from Carabelle to Steinhatchee (86 miles), Steinhatchee to Crystal River (84 miles), and Crystal River to Caladesi Island State Park, near Clearwater (74 miles). All three will be open water in the Gulf since the protected Intracoastal Waterway stops at Carrabelle, in the eastern end of Florida’s panhandle and picks up again at Tarpon Springs, 140 miles south.

That evening the captain finalized our route across the gulf on a paper chart and entered the waypoints into the plotter and also into the hand-held GPS as a backup. Meanwhile, the mate prepared the emergency bags in case we needed to abandon ship and take the dinghy. Besides our regular dink bag, our off shore bag would have the portable VHF radio, handheld GPS, extra batteries, cell phone, binoculars, the flare kit, a compass, airhorn, a chart for the area, water, almonds, and sunscreen. We’d be sure to have hats, sunglasses and shirts as well. A fire on board or a collision causing the ship to sink would cause such an emergency. Plans completed, we listened to NOAA radio again for the gulf forecast and hit the sack, looking forward to our adventure the next day.

Mm381 31 miles

Up at 0515 and after checking NOAA weather again, with the same forecast of 2-3 foot seas, we left The Moorings at 0615, still in the dark and the fog as well. We slowly motored out of the channel into the bay and a dense fog, using the electronic chart and radar to indicate our position and the position of the channel markers. After about 50 minutes we were out in the Gulf, the fog was beginning to lift and we could no longer see land. A pusher was towing a barge on a long cable, heading into East Pass. With the waves out in the gulf, the tows are not tied to the pusher but connected by the long cable instead.

We followed the points the Captain had charted and at 0832 headed to buoy 2 at the entrance to the Steinhatchee Channel. The Captain put the WE BE BLEST III in auto pilot and across the gulf we cruised about 10mph. We periodically plotted our gps coordinates on the paper chart as a check of our location. Occasionally we’d see a boat on the far distant horizon.

It was cold, windy and cloudy most of the day. Around 1020 our first set of dolphins swam alongside and jumped our wake several times. It was always exciting when we would sight the dolphins and they’d tag along for the ride.

About 0900 the mate’s tum-tum was thinking about doing a few flip-flops. So much for her charting current GPS locations on the paper charts. Looking through the binocs in the rolly seas? No way! The flat horizon was her favored sight for awhile. Triscuits were a mighty tasty cracker! Her "voo-doo" bracelets, as the captain calls them (pressure point bracelets for motion sickness) did help. By noon the seas had flattened somewhat and by 1400, they were very calm -- so was her tummy! We might have to look into some alternative remedies.

1308 Land Ho! We had been out of sight of land for 6 hours, about 23 miles off shore. By 1449 we arrived at Steinhatchee and docked at the Sea Hag Marina. We had filed our float plan with our neighbors, Betty and Bob Dunham, so the mate promptly called to let them know we had arrived safely. We didn’t want to forget and have them call out the Coast Guard to look for us. That would not be good! Later, standing in the ship’s store we both felt ourselves rocking -- a lot. We realized we were on solid ground. After an entire day of rolling and rocking we didn’t notice it on the boat, but we certainly did on land!

That evening we toasted our first open water crossing, 86 miles. The day had gone well. Our preparations paid off. The captain had been working with the GPS, charts and autopilot since the Tennessee River to familiarize himself with them. We even ran in the fog several times on the rivers to use the radar. Today, he used them all with comfort. It was a fun day. We thanked God for our safe crossing. We didn’t need to use the emergency bags, thank goodness! Two more crossings await. Now if we can just keep the mate’s tummy calm!

86 miles traveled

We slept in this morning and awoke to a rather unusual sight. The boat tied on the dock next to us was leaning onto the dock at a 60 degree angle. The tide had dropped significantly during the early morning, about 4 feet and the 48’ Marine Trader, GOOD VIBRATIONS, was now stuck on the bottom and leaning quite precariously, port side and port prop out of the water. It was not a pretty sight -- and the only thing to do was wait until the tide came back up. So we fixed coffee and tea for Emil and Judy as we waited. About 1000 the tide had come back enough to float her again and she righted herself. Fortunately, there was no damage done. Since we are both weatherbound until Tuesday or Wednesday because of high seas, the marina staff helped him move to deeper location. Another low low tide was expected tomorrow morning as well. They woke up about 0700 today, feeling the boat listing; there was no need to repeat that experience!

No cell phone reception here. Once again a weekend where I can’t use my available minutes. Bummer! We walked about a mile to Fiddlers Restaurant and enjoyed a seafood dinner -- again, the Captain reminded the Mate.

Weatherbound still. 4-6 foot seas. We visited with Emil and Judy, had lunch together, shopped a bit, walked a bit. They left Tuesday morning, but the Captain did not want to try the 4’ seas. We’ll go tomorrow. The winds and waves are calming down. Spent time charting our routes and preparing for alternative open water crossings.

We left Steinhatchee before sunrise, about 0625. No fog. Beautiful weather, pleasant seas. Ran 2750 rpm about one hour, then 3100 rpm, 11.5 mph. After two hours, we made the decision to go the 115 miles to Anclote Key instead of 89 miles to Crystal River, since the weather and seas were so good and so was the Mate’s tummy. She had purchased and used Motion Ease, herbal drops to put behind the ears, often used by divers. They worked great so far.

Surprisingly, the water was quite brown about three miles offshore where the Suwanne came out to the Gulf. Later it became clear. We began our charted course toward Crystal River. It was fairly shallow with lots of crabpots to dodge. As we made the decision to do the longer run, we replotted our route picking deeper water. We never did get away from the crab pots. The Captain said there must have been 10,000 crab pots -- no, change that to 12,000! The trip probably would have been five miles shorter had we not had to dodge them. The day passed very quickly since we were busy plotting our course and dodging the pots. Attention was needed all day.

Anchored at Anclote Key about 1655. We thanked God for another successful, safe, enjoyable open water crossing. The Captain called Bob and closed the float plan. We enjoyed the evening by candlelight -- reviewing the day and this whole trip. The weather can make or break a crossing. Jack and Joyce on ALMOST PURFICT left us a message. Their crossing was terrible from Appalachicola to Tarpon Springs -- 7’ seas, 17 hours long. Joyce got sick after one hour. It was so peaceful for our crossing and amazing how it can be a nightmare for another. Lesson Learned: Pick your days carefully! All night long we rocked although we had a solid bite with the anchor -- we were secure.

We called Brianna at 0830 to wish her a Happy Birthday -- 8 years old -- although she did say she is not 8 until around 7pm tonight!

Anchor up at 0900, motored into Anclote Village Marina at Tarpon Springs to refuel and hose off the boat. The tide was "screaming out," as the dock hand informed us, so we headed back out to the ICW and motored 10 miles to Caladesi State Park. The entrance was quite shallow. We bumped bottom when we ran out of water, and then motored very slowly, picking our way into the marina. What a beautiful spot -- a 99 slip marina on an island paradise. We walked the beach, the Mate picked up lots of great shells. That evening we planned our last few days on the boat, and recharted our routes from Steinhatchee to Crystal River and Anclote Key through deeper water. We erased our former routes to avoid confusion next time.

We considered staying another day so the Mate could sit on the beach and write, but decided to walk the beach and shell for an hour, then head south. 0904 lines off, heading to Clearwater Pass and an open water run in the Gulf to Tampa Bay. Seas 1-2’ generally.

Anchored at mm85 by Longboat Key. Met another Camano, MEANWHILE, owned by Cary and Cammie from Tampa. We dinked over to see their boat and they came to see ours. Then the four of us dinked to Mar-Vista restaurant for supper.

Saturday, 11/20

Anchor up at 0727. Motored east around Jewfish Key to avoid the shallows and took Longboat Pass out to the Gulf. Pretty lumpy -- probably 3’ bow on seas. Three hours of it was not pleasant. The temperature was good, but the seas very lumpy. We came in at Venice Inlet and motored on the ICW to mm40, Jerry and Linda’s channel, friends of ours from Wisconsin who winter in Englewood. Coming in about an hour before low tide, we ran out of water. We anchored just outside of their channel, checking the tide charts. Looked like we would not have good water until 1830, so we called them and arranged to meet at Stump Pass Marina, half a mile up the ICW. We took a slip for the night, visited on the boat, then spent the night at their home, 5 miles away. Had a wonderful time catching up on families and adventures. We decided to head home tomorrow to be able to visit with the Dunhams before they leave for Atlanta. So Friday night at Longboat Key was our last night on the boat for this trip.

Up at 0600. Enjoyed breakfast with Jerry and Linda and back to the boat at 0745. Lines off at 0805, headed out for our last day of this adventure. 57 miles to home. We left home early April, arrived at the boat early May, and then left Stillwater, MN on July 1. This trip was almost 5 months on the boat.

This has been a great learning experience. Blessed with great weather -- no storms. The boating was interrupted with various side trips and the schedule driven by calendar dates along the way. Again we learned it is best not to have a schedule. We’ve learned this from many boaters. It is hard for us not to impose a schedule on ourselves. We will try very hard next year to have no schedule and no end date. We get home when we get home.

The boat has met our expectations -- exactly what we wanted for a two person traveling boat. Running as a trawler is very efficient 2 gal/hr, but it has the ability to go twice that speed or more at 5 gal/hr.

Electronically, it has all we need, except for a different radio with a fog alarm. This will send the main radio on the flybridge via a remote and give a better signal up above than our hand-held radio we presently use.

We often compared our pontoon trip to this one. Camping on the pontoon was an adventure -- 75 days, 2700 river miles. This was a "cruise" with more comfortable accommodations and amenities -- 166 days, 3400 miles. It’s with mixed feelings we end this trip. We’d like to continue, yet we’re ready to be home for awhile too. The plus side of coming home is knowing in 4-5 months we will be back to resume the WE BE BLEST III’s adventures on the Great Loop.

This had been a learning experience about:

Life is simple on the boat. We need fuel, a safe anchorage or port, and provisions. We also need to chart our course and always watch the weather.

The WE BE BLEST III is easy to maintain. It is my Tupperware boat with no teak to sand and varnish. We cruise with no schedules, since with potential weather or mechanical problems, we cannot really predict where we will be when. This is an outstanding way to enjoy God’s world and to share the blessings He has given us.

As we cruised past the Sanibel area, dolphins welcomed us back as they jumped completely out of the water. Scores of pelicans were nose diving into the water for a Sunday morning brunch feeding frenzy. It was a beautiful sunny day. Diamonds danced on the water. As we passed marker 101 the week-end congestion began. We probably saw more boats in this 6 mile stretch of river to the Cape Coral Bridge than we saw the last 1000 miles. We were back in our home waters filled with seagulls, pelicans and snowbirds!

We turned into the Old Bridge channel off the ICW at marker 36, motored into our canal to be greeted by our smiling friends, happy to see us back safe and sound. We were home for a several month shore leave before resuming the GREAT LOOP in the spring. To be continued in 2005....

* * *