LOG 12   9/14/08 – 9/21/08  

DAYS 146-153

HEADING TO CHATTANOOGA

DAY 146  SUNDAY  9/14/08

Good-bye Watts Bar!  Hello Hurricane IKE!  When Gene turned on the weather radio, we heard that the remains of IKE will be passing this area later today and during the night.  Wind advisories were posted for the Ohio River Valley Region and the Tennessee River with 20-30 mph winds from the SW.  We were in an open anchorage with exposure to the SW, so we motored downstream to mm 530.5, the cove with Watts Bar Resort.  While motoring here the water was already stirred up with white caps and 25+mph gusts. 

We first pulled into the bay adjacent to Watts Bar Resort finger.  In 1997, on the pontoon trip we weathered a storm here with 7” of rain in 24 hours.  It was a very protected, long, narrow finger bay.  However, in 2004, we saw this area had devastated by pine beetles.  The trees were standing dead.  Yet, nature recovers and four years later, the pines are starting to come back while the deciduous have grown. 

It looked like there were snags by shore, so we chose to go into the resort’s finger bay instead and motored past the resort most of the way to the end.  We had good water, good protection from the SW winds and most importantly, a solid hook.  By 0910, we were secure for IKE.  We relaxed and worked on my book, had a Sunday grilled chicken dinner.  It was windy, but we were quite well protected.  Some light rain came in the late afternoon and evening.  By night, the winds were gone.  NOAA weather predicted good weather for Monday and beyond --- so we should head out in the morning.

Day 146:  8.0 miles, in bay past Watts Bar Resort, Watts Bar Lake, mm 530.5 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.61704 , W 084.79671) start 0800 , stop 0910

DAY 147-148  MONDAY-TUESDAY  9/15/08-9/16/08

Light winds, no rain today.  Anchor up at 0837.  The lock was just past our bay and had no commercial traffic, so we had no delay – another smooth solo lockage with light winds pushing the bow into the wall.  It was certainly much different from our lockage up in June when this lockmaster brought us up slowly during the onslaught of a thunderstorm.

Good-Bye Watts Bar Lake!  Hello Chickamauga Lake!  It was a beautiful day for cruising—pleasant temps, light wind.  We passed COLONEL’S LADY, a “graduate” Looper, with a yellow burgee signifying they had completed the Loop.  ROY EL’ said to watch for them and a couple other Loopers who were headed to Watts Bar and Blue Springs Marina.  We chatted over the radio with them briefly.  They summer on their boat and have an RV for going back and forth to their home in the San Diego area for the winter. 

Coming up in June, Gene saw several boats rafted up in an unnamed bay at mm 495.8, so we decided to go in and check it out.  He was a bit confused when studying the contour lines on the chart for this area.  He finally realized there was a typo on the line at the 1^st bay upstream of the entrance to Sale Creek Rec Area.  That line should read 669, NOT 689.

Coming downstream, to avoid the submerged long island in the center of the river, we motored in the marked channel downstream of the bay, and then headed diagonally back up through the charted deeper water to the 2^nd unnamed bay upstream of Sale Creek.  We slowly picked our way through the shallower areas and found the skinniest water at the mouth of the bay (6-7’).

This is a lovely, wooded, undeveloped anchorage with depths of 10’ or more.  Turtles swam from their favorite logs, popping their heads in and out of the water.  Schools of minnows broke  the surface and splashed as predators lunged at them from the deep.  More time to read and write.  Gene dinked around the bay fishing with a few strikes, but no dinner!  With plenty of days to make it to Chattanooga by Friday, we decided to stay an extra day here and enjoy this new anchorage.

Monday night the temperature dropped and for the first time this trip we needed a light blanket.  It was 60 degrees Tuesday morning, but warmed to the mid to high 70’s.  Summer’s over, fall has come… briefly, since 80’s are predicted for the weekend.

Day 147-148:   36.7 miles, un-named bay (“Rafting Bay/Turtle Bay”) by Lakewood, Chickamauga Lake, mm 495.8 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.37276 , W 085.04589) start 0837 , stop 1342

DAY 149-150  WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY  9/17/08-9/18/08

Anchor up at 1055.  Gene slowly picked our way over the bar at the mouth of the bay.  He favored the upstream side and only had 3’6” under us.  Next time we should try more towards the center.

We decided to anchor at Patten Island across from the entrance to Harrison Bay State Park.  We chose Chigger Point Bay.  With settled weather, light winds, and no rain predicted we anchored at the entrance to the bay to catch the breezes.

With the marina across the channel and a 4-lane highway in the distance, it was not as scenic as other anchorages.  Nonetheless we stayed two nights.

Evidently, the Mate’s female “nesting instinct” kicked in after realizing how grimy our three flybridge helm chairs had become.  With my back sometimes dicey earlier in the trip, I had not done much upkeep on the flybridge.  The Captain had been waxing and polishing the rest of the boat.  However, after dropping the hook and feeding the Captain (of course!) I grabbed my various cleaners and attacked the chair cushions for two hours.  The next day I cleaned the rough textured edging, polished the stainless supports, cleaned the three helm chairs and scrubbed the flybridge deck.  Hours later, we had a sparkling flybridge and a tired Mate, yet I could still move around in spite of all the time crawling around on the floor and on my knees.  Thank you Dr. Jack Clement!  That back procedure certainly helped.  I never could have done all that without his intervention.

Gene followed up with wax and polish on a few areas of the flybridge.  More reading—more writing and internet work with a good signal here.

Thursday evening about, 1900 we heard a blast from an air horn and all of a sudden 25-30 bass boats took off like bats out of hell.  They headed in all directions from the entrance of Harrison Bay State Park.  Evidently, there was a night fishing tournament scheduled out of the marina.  Later one boat poked into our bay, but only briefly and soon zoomed full speed to his next “hot spot.”  Bass fishermen seem to know only two speeds--WIDE OPEN or DEAD STOP!

Day 149-150:   20.3miles, Chigger Point Bay across from Harrison Bay State Park, Chickamauga Lake, mm 478.5 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.15568 , W 085.12829) start 1055 , stop 1355

DAY 151  FRIDAY  9/19/08

Today is the day to head to Chattanooga.  Anchor up at 1110 and we motored across the channel to Dog Leg Slough, which is part of Harrison Bay State Park.  We had anchored here in 2004 in this Camano.  It is a long finger bay and to see sunset that year, we had to dink out to the mouth.  I captured one of the best shots of an after-sunset scene with a brilliant red sky above Chigger Point Bay.  The water was as red as the sky.  This has been my computer screen saver for several years.  Today, as we pulled out of Dog Leg Slough, we realized that Patten Island and our anchorage the last two days was the area I had photographed with the red sky and water in 2004.  I took a couple daytime pictures to compare with my sunset shot.

Good-Bye Chickamauga Lake!  We transited Chickamauga Lock –solo again.  Our run of solo lockages is intact since leaving home last April!  It was a bit windy and the stern kept blowing out which pushed the bow into the wall.  I worked most of the time to keep the fenders off the grimy concrete—even had Gene use the bow thruster to push away from the wall.

Hello Nickajack Lake!  A great day on the water – again!  Another hour of motoring again in beautiful high 70’s with light breezes and we were near Chattanooga.  Son Daron, wife Kayla and Baby Gray will meet us here tomorrow.  We tried to anchor upstream of Maclellan Island and could not get a bite with our anchor on the rock bottom.  Then tried near the top of the island in the secondary channel – still all rock.  Third time’s the charm.  We tried once more, about 1/3 down the island, but along the mainland bank instead.  Finally a hook!  We were set for the night since again the weather was settled.

On the radio, we heard a boat docking at the Bluffview Dock just downstream of us.  They were jostling boats to fit the newcomer on the dock.  We have reservations for tomorrow.  Here’s hoping there will be room for us then.

For about an hour there were a lot of UT-Chattanooga crew boats practicing in our secondary channel.  There are several sculling clubs in the area as well.  The UTC group has two old barges along shore and use them to store all their boats and equipment.

Day 151:   17.4miles, behind Maclellan Island, Nickajack Lake, mm 465 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.05374 , W 085.29961) start 1110, stop1405

DAY 152  SATURDAY  9/20/08

We awoke early and enjoyed the beautiful red colors of sunrise.  Scullers were silently and swiftly plying their way downstream even before the sun came up. 

Did we ever have a start while calmly eating our breakfast.  We heard a crash and felt the boat and dink bounce around.  Then a heron squawked loudly.  Had one flown into the dink?  We jumped up to check out the back of the boat and there was a college-age young man dazed in his scull.  He had been rowing backwards (as is done) and evidently did not realize we were that close to him.  He had seen us when going downstream on the opposite side of the channel.

His strut caught our swim platform and then the scull pivoted into our boat.  We don’t think we have any damage from it, although his strut was bent slightly.  He was quite shaken … coming to a dead stop from skimming at a pretty good clip.  It’s not often we get rammed by a scull!

We pulled the anchor and motored the last 2 miles to the Chattanooga City Dock.  We pumped out and tied to the Bluffview Dock, right below the Aquarium.  Two boaters helped us land and tie up.  They were on SEASEA, a boat ROY EL’ had said to watch for.  Small world again!  We chatted, they are Loopors and have cruised the St. John’s River in Florida 3 times.   Talk about hospitality … they invited us to use their slip in Goose Pond Colony Marina on Guntersville Lake for a night and their St. John’s guidebook is on the boat across from them, on GEORGIA PEACH.  We know her owners, Ruth and Bill from the Loop and have been hoping to see them this trip.  Small world!  We’ll check out their favorite anchorages for our trip to the St. John’s this coming spring 2009.

Daron, Kayla and Gray (19 mo) arrived at the hotel around noon.  We hopped on the free electric shuttle to the Aquarium area, had lunch, and meandered past all the fish tanks in the River Journey and Ocean buildings.  This is an excellent aquarium and well worth a stop.  Then after an ice cream break at Ben and Jerry’s (YUM) we hopped back on the shuttle to the art district across the river on the North Shore.  There is a great riverfront park, carousel, and large fountain.  All the animals were hand carved by local artists.  It was Gray’s first carousel ride!  Then he enjoyed playing in the fountain with his Dad and Gramps!  Chattanooga has wonderful water-features for kids to play in and enjoy.  After supper, we hung out on the boat for awhile.  Gray loved playing in the v-berth!

Day 152:   1.8 miles, Chattanooga City Dock, Nickajack Lake, mm 465 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.05686 , W 085.30857) start 0755, stop 0840

DAY 153  SUNDAY  9/21/08

Daron and Kayla wanted to go for an hour run, still in training, so the three of them came over to the boat and Gramps and Grandma got to baby-sit.  A new Captain sat in the helm, tied to the dock.  After provisioning, the kids left mid-afternoon.  We once again had wonderful Gramps and Grandma time.

Day 146:   when this was posted still at Chattanooga City Dock, Nickajack Lake, mm 465 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.05686 , W 085.30857)  We will be leaving today to anchor downstream.

LOG 13   9/21/08 – 9/28/08  

DAYS 153-160

BACK DOWN THE TENNESSEE

DAY 153  SUNDAY  9/21/08

We left Chattanooga Bluffview Dock around 1800 after finishing internet work.  As we were motoring to Williams Island, the Aquarium Fast Cat passed us going downstream into the gorge.  After we had anchored behind the top of Williams Island at mm456.8, the Fast Cat came back upstream leaving a sizeable wake.  The WE BE BLEST III rocked substantially, probably the most we have been waked this whole trip.  We discussed the impact this“ecco” boat tour will have on the shoreline, and the hazard it can be to fishermen who are waked as it goes past them.  Time will tell if there are any serious accidents or shoreline erosion problems.

During the evening, a pack of coyotes began howling and yipping.  We heard some mooing as well.  Perhaps they were after a calf.  With settled weather predicted all week, this was another calm anchorage and a very peaceful night. 

Day 153:   7.3 miles, behind top of Williams Island, Nickajack Lake, mm 456.8 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.06924 , W 085.34300) start 1806, stop 1909

DAY 154  MONDAY  9/22/08

Today was a wonderful morning of cruising through the “Grand Canyon of the Tennessee.”  The narrow river winds through the Nickajack Gorge with its 1000’ high wooded bluffs and mountains.  The water is very deep here.  The deepest we saw on our depth sounder was 132’.  Most of the time, there was no wind, leaving perfect reflections on the water.  Only a few trees have a slight tinge of orange or yellow, with a spot of red here and there.  Someday we will do the “Color Tour” in mid-to-late October to feast on the fall colors through this gorge.

Around 1400, we pulled into the bay across from the former Hales Bar Marina.  SUNDANCER, the shrimp boat from Blue Springs Marina, was tied up in this bay at a friend’s dock.  Ray and Delila had finished their two month journey to Cincinnati and were completing some work on the boat at this location.  A small floating dock, used as a work barge, was secured to them so we tied off to it, sandwiching the barge between our two boats.

What a wonderful reunion—hearing tales from their trip and meeting folks who helped do part of the major work on SUNDANCER last year when it was in the yard at Hales Bar Marina.  Gene helped Ray with some work on the boat, while Delila and I visited and put together happy hour and supper.  A good evening of more stories and experiences.

Day 154:   26.2 miles, bay across from Hales Bar Marina, Nickajack Lake, mm 430.0 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.04517 , W 085.54781) start 1056, stop 1400

DAY 155  TUESDAY  9/23/08

After coffee and more visiting with Ray and Delila, we cast off at 0933.  Nickajack Lock was ready for us—a 39’ drop, smooth and solo.  Although just after we began our descent, a pleasure craft called for a downstream lockage.  We came close to breaking our string of solo lockages.  Had we delayed our departure 10 minutes or more, we probably would have had company in the lock.

Good-Bye Nickajack Lake!  Hello Gentersville Lake!  Another beautiful day of cruising.  We motored almost six hours, 42.6 miles to Jones Creek and idled through a narrow winding marked channel.  Milfoil was growing and filled the creek except for the marked channel—probably due to the depth or to boat traffic.  The creek meandered back to a rather large open bay almost completely surrounded by wooded bluffs and ridges.  I felt like I had just motored into a high mountain lake.  What a scenic anchorage.  There were a few houses on the high ridges, and only a couple along the shoreline.  Otherwise, it was a lovely remote anchorage.  A few fishermen searched the waters for their dinner.

We idled a little out of the marked channel, dropped the hook in 14’ of water and had a good set.  This is a spot worthy of a couple day stay—in settled weather.

We had a very good cell and internet connection, so I was able to call my sister-in-law Marsha in California and review some of the stories she had been proofing for me.  Then I sent her quite a few more to proof.  During the early morning Gene noticed a “pulp mill” type smell, although I did not.

Day 155:   42.6 miles, Jones Creek, Guntersville Lake, mm 388.0 Tenn River   (GPS N 35.65868, W 085.93277) start 0933, stop 1516

DAY 156  WEDNESDAY  9/24/08

We’re in central time, so we gained an hour this morning.  Headed to Goose Pond Colony Marina to see about the St. Johns River Guidebook that SEA SEA had left there.  We called the Donovan’s on GEORGIA PEACH where we thought the book was left.  They were at Alred Marina, farther downstream and did not know anything about it.  We were confused.  Nonetheless, we arranged to head to Alred to stay the night and visit with Bill and Ruth.  On the way, we thought we’d still check out Goose Pond to see if we could find the book.

Well, we solved the puzzle.  The book was on PEACHES ‘N CREAM at Goose Pond Colony, not GEORGIA PEACH.  Both captains were named Bill, so when we heard the “PEACH” and “Bill” we evidently we thought it was the Donovans.  No wonder they didn’t know what we were talking about!

We did find the cruising guide, took notes, and talked with Wanda and Bill on PEACHES ‘N CREAM, and then headed to Alred Marina across the channel from Guntersville.  Bill heard us call Alred on the marine radio and came out to help us tie up.  We enjoyed happy hour with them, catching up on our boating lives and touring their “new” 44’ DeFever. 

Gene drooled at the engine room – almost a party room for guys—with all the space to work, complete with a workbench and vise.  A far cry from our cramped bilge where he needs to be a contortionist to work on the port-side of the engine or genset.  Bill has multiple spares for just about everything onboard.  The previous owner wintered in the Bahamas for a number of years.  It’s difficult to impossible to get parts, so spares are crucial.  He even has some parts not used on the DeFever, but for bartering with other boatersl 

Day 156:   34.7miles, Alred Marina, Guntersville Lake, mm 357.5Tenn River   (GPS N 34.39562, W 086.27920) start 0945, stop 1540

DAY 157  THURSDAY  9/25/08

This morning we came back to their boat and I met Lynne Baumgardt, a liveaboard on a houseboat next to GEORGIA PEACH.  She is a writer and has published three books so we talked “shop” about book publishers, agents and writing.  She has two books in her “Liveaboard” fiction series and is working on a third.  I’m looking forward to reading book one which I purchased from her.

When we were with SUNDANCER two days before, Delila had given us a bag of fresh okra she had received from friends.  We tried grilling it—so-so at best.  Then while on GEORGIA PEACH, we asked Lynne if she would like to have it.  We got the better end of the deal, since she brought us a dish of homemade chicken-okra soup.  Yum!

Marsha called—she had finished all the stories I sent her for proofing.  So we talked through each one with her suggestions.  This is exciting!  I’m getting close to putting them all together in one manuscript.  Yeah!

We used Aldred’s free pump-out and headed to Honeycomb Creek—another nice new anchorage for us.  It reminded us of a Canadian lake with a densely wooded hills and no development.  This anchorage gave us protection from the 20mph north winds in the afternoon.  By evening, we had settled weather.  This seems to be a broken record—we have had wonderful, settled weather most of the summer.

Day 157:   8.9 miles, Honeycomb Creek, Guntersville Lake, mm 352.5 Tenn River   (GPS N 34.43530, W 086.34600) start 1422, stop 1534

DAY 158  FRIDAY  9/26/08

We wanted to make miles today, to connect tomorrow with boaters Jim and Sue Starke on EAGLE ONE.  They came to our home for dinner last winter when staying at Ft. Myers with ROY EL’.  So we left early this morning—did have a 30 minute wait at Guntersville Lock, but it was another smooth, solo lockage.  As we came to a recess in the lock wall for the middle bollard, we realized it was missing so we had to skim the wall to the next one.  It was also missing!  We continued sliding close to the wall to the next recess, which ended up being a ladder.   More skimming and we finally came to a bollard to tie off the boat for the lockage.  It would have been nice if the lock tender mentioned the missing bollards.

Good-Bye Guntersville Lake!  Hello Wheeler Lake!  BRRRR!  Fall has come!  We had to bundle up in fleeces on the flybridge, cover our legs with towels and folded back one bimini to get more sun.  The Captain even put on socks!  First time for socks on the flybridge this trip!  Not long after we left the lock, we came to Painted Bluff.  It was the prettiest we had seen it—the morning sun was at our backs shining on the high rock face with brown, gray and yellow streaking  down the high solid wall.

The day warmed to low 80’s but was still breezy.  As we approached the Decatur, Alabama railroad lift bridge, and for several miles downstream from there, we had white caps.  The Captain wanted to be sure the log reflected our first white caps since leaving the gulf coast.  Actually, I reminded him, we did have them from Hurricane IKE’s remnants when we left Watts Bar Lake.  However, he said, “Lie a little!”  “Yes, sir, Captain, sir!  Duly noted in the log!”

We made it through the Decatur lift bridge without a wait and motored a little past Browns Ferry Nuclear Power Plant.  At mm 290.5 we dropped anchor near the right descending bank.  This provided a small amount of protection from the WNW winds.  However, they settled by evening and it turned out to be another great anchorage.  The shoreline was solid rock and the waves gently lap-lapped against the hard surface making a delightful, peaceful sound.  There was a spectacular sunset across the river, with color in the clouds and on the water from the yellow to gold to orange to red.  A beautiful sight.

Day 158:   60.5 miles, right descending bank, downstream of Browns Ferry Nuc Plant, Wheeler Lake, mm  290.5 Tenn River   (GPS N 34.74156, W 087.15409) start 0653, stop 1540

DAY 159  SATURDAY  9/27/08

We were awakened around 0400 to hard rocking plus the head door latch hook rattling with each wave.  Evidently, a tow passed by in the distant channel, leaving many waves  working their way to shore.

Pulled anchor at 0914 and headed to Bay Hill Marina to meet Jim and Sue on EAGLE ONE.  Jim hailed us as we approached and directed us to an empty slip hear EAGLE ONE.  We tied up and then they took us to see their new villa home right at the marina and showed us around the whole development.  There are condos, single family multi-story homes and villa (single story) homes.  With the marina and lake access, it’s the best of both worlds for living and playing on land and water. 

They took us to nearby Rogersville to provision; we had lunch at the marina and visited.  Cast off at 1353 and motored towards the lock.  We heard another boat calling for a lockage, so we took a detour and toured Joe Wheeler State Park Marina and the nearby bay, then headed to the lock.  We waited about 30 minutes for the lockage, but were able to continue our smooth, solo string of lockages. 

Good-Bye Wheeler Lake!  Hello Wilson Lake!  Since it was late afternoon, we only went 3 miles downstream and idled around submerged Hog Island to drop the hook in 13’ of water, probably ¼ mile offshore.  Another night of settled weather, so this very open anchorage is fine.  Once again we had a very colorful sunset.

Day 159:   22.4 miles, around submerged Hog Island, Wilson Lake, mm 271.7 Tenn River   (GPS N 34.79062, W 087.43392) start 0914, stop 1517

DAY 160  SUNDAY  9/28/08

Anchor up at 0749.  Today we will motor through Wilson Lock, the highest on the Tennessee River (96’) and when it was built was the third highest in the world.  This is the last lock that we will be transiting on the Tennessee River since the next lock is downstream of where we turn off for the Tenn-Tom Waterway.

We have arranged to meet Fred Myers, the writer of the cruise guides for the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers and Tenn-Tom Waterway.  He lives in Florence, Alabama just downstream of Wilson Lock.  We heard from other boaters that he enjoys coming to the marina and visiting with boaters, so I emailed him and we’ll get together today around 1300.

We had a 20 minute wait at Wilson Lock while the lockmaster filled the chamber.  Another smooth, solo lockage.  We transited all the Tennessee Locks, both up and down, by ourselves.  I timed the descent on Wilson several times since we were zinging down as the lockmaster “pulled the plug in the tub!”  Shortly after we started, our descent was about a “roaring” 12 feet per minute... and we could hear the water rushing.  Then is slowed to 8’/min and substantially less than that as we reached the 90+’ drop.  The huge gates swung open and out we motored. 

Good-Bye Wilson Lake!  Hello Pickwick Lane!  Our last lake on the Tennessee.  Tomorrow we should be turning onto the Tenn-Tom and hopefully anchor in Bay Springs Lake.

We motored through a several mile narrow canal from the lock and arrived at Florence, AL at 1030.  Since we were early for meeting Fred Myers, we anchored in the river, out of the channel, hung out for awhile, and then around 1230 motored on into Florence Harbor.

We had a delightful visit with Fred and Joan Myers swapping boating stories, hearing how he wrote the three cruising guides and the repeat boat trips they did to prepare the updated editions.  They even gave us some tips on renting an RV to do Alaska by land as they had done.  As we talked “writing,” Fred had some great suggestions and ideas for me the budding writer.  We were so appreciative they had taken time on a Sunday afternoon to visit with fellow boaters.  The boating community is a good one!

We cast off at 1535 and continued heading downstream on Pickwick Lake.  We want to go about20 miles or so.  Since I want to update the log today, I will not have our anchorage information until the next log, since we will lose our internet connection in a few miles. 

Day 160:   somewhere on Pickwick Lake, Tenn River   (see next log for anchorage info)

LOG 14   9/28/08 – 10/5/08  

DAYS 160-167

HEADING HOME DOWN THE TENN-TOM

DAY 160  SUNDAY  9/28/08

After visiting with Fred and Joan Myers on the WE BE BLEST III at Florence Marina, we cast off at 1535.  We want to go about20 miles or so.  It was fairly breezy as we motored downstream of Florence on Pickwick Lake.  We had thought about anchoring out of the channel around mm

235, however we felt it would be pretty rough with all the wind.  So we continued on to Ross Branch to mm 230, an anchorage we used coming up.  Approaching the entrance, we saw one boat, then another.  Guess we won’t be alone tonight.  It’s been quite awhile since we have had to share our anchorages.  Both boats were trawlers/tugs—one looked like a 24’ Ranger.  It was from Seattle heading upstream.  They most likely trailered it here.

It was late when we pulled in (1705), past sunset.  We only motored 41.4 miles all day, yet we did have a five-hour layover and a good visit at Florence.

Day 160:   41.4 miles, Ross Branch, Pickwick Lake, mm 230 Tenn River   (GPS N 34.89405, W 088.02109) start 0749, stop 1855

DAY 161  MONDAY  9/29/08

Happy Birthday to me!  Yeah! Another birthday on the boat.  Life doesn’t get much better when I can be traveling on the boat, on our favorite fresh water river and with my favorite fellow!  WE BE BLEST!  Thank you Lord for the blessing of the last year and the prospects of more adventures with You this coming year.  Continue to grant us Your wisdom, guidance, direction and protection.

Fall mornings at anchor are beautiful.  The fog spills out of the woods and fills the bay, then rolls out into the river.  With the sun shining and breeze blowing, it is a wonderful sight!

We had a bit of a concern this morning.  Gene turned on the generator to make coffee and very shortly, it shut off.  “That’s not good,” he said.  Checking the genset, Gene found nothing wrong.  He started it again, looked at the exhaust out from under the swim platform.  All appeared OK.  Gene finally decided he must have inadvertently hit the OFF toggle switch with his foot while bending down to turn on switches.  Mystery solved!  Thank goodness no problems!

This was a brisk morning.  60 degrees in the V-berth.  I slipped on long pants for the first time.  Summer’s over!

Anchor up at 0830 and we motored our last 15 miles on the Tennessee River.  We have had a fantastic time this summer for the past 3 ½ months.  Our trip up and down this 400 stretch of the Tennessee River has been relaxing, scenic and enjoyable as we’ve discovered new anchorages and met old and new friends.  It’s also been a wonderful place for me to finish my book.  We realized again how much we enjoy this river and are thinking about spending more time here in the future.  Fresh water is SO nice compared to salt water.  Although Florida does have its advantages in winter without the cold weather and that icy white fluffy “stuff” for making snowmen.

1020.  Good-Bye Tennessee River.  We will return.  Hello Tenn-Tom Waterway!

During 1971-1985, more material was moved to create the Tenn-Tom than the Panama Canal.  After about 7 miles, we began the Divide Cut, a 24 mile rip-rap section that connected the Tennessee with the Tombigbee River.  According to Fred Myers Cruising Guide, when the Tenn-Tom was opened it “looked as lovely as a strip mine.”  Today this section has a lot of vegetation growing on it with grasses, shrubs and trees, although the Divide Cut is a long fairly straight section – a good place, again according to Fred,” for the 1st Mate to take a nap.”  So I did as the expert recommended, and had a 10 minute post-lunch “baby nap.”  After all, it is my birthday.

We passed two oncoming tows, plus a pontoon then one other boat heading to home port at Bay Springs Lake passed us.  That was our traffic for the day!  Pretty serene, calm, sunny cruising.

At 1430 we left the Divide Cut as beautiful wide Bay Springs Lake opened up.  Bright diamonds dancing on the water led us down the lake.  The water is low, so sand beaches edge the shoreline while wooded bays and coves jut in and out from the lake.

We anchored in “Ghost Bay” again (as we did for 4 days coming up in spring) and Gene fixed me a wonderful birthday dinner—Italian chicken like his Mom would make.  Yum!

Day 161:   49.3 miles, “Ghost Bay,” Bay Springs Lake, mm 415.2 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 34.56796, W 088.31026) start 0830, stop 1500

DAYS 162-163  TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY 9/30/08-10/1/08

We stayed three nights at Ghost Bay to enjoy this beautiful, secluded, wooded anchorage.  Out of the winds on the lake, yet wide enough to have a great sunset view.  No signs of man, no nearby roads or railroads—only the sounds of nature.

I had two productive days of formatting the manuscript while Gene read and then cooked the second batch of chicken since the first turned out so good.

Day 162-163:   0 miles, stayed at “Ghost Bay,” Bay Springs Lake, mm 415.2 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 34.89405, W 088.02109)

DAY 164  THURSDAY  10/2/08

Up at 0600.  My Captain’s jets were revved—he heard no tows go past our anchorage, so he wanted to get a jump on the locks before breakfast.  Oh well!  The best laid plans…  We waited, drifting around 20 minutes while the lock tender had to fill the chamber back up for us.  Whitten is an 84’ lock. 

Shortly after we exited the lock, we came up on a tow hauling coal downstream.  Eight barges plus the pusher.  Not sure where he came from.  It was only 5 miles to the second lock (Montgomery), not enough time and distance to pass it, plus the tow had priority, so we waited two hours while the tow locked through and then a NOAA vessel (which was high priority) was coming up.  The lockmaster waited for the NOAA boat to arrive at this lock.  In the meantime, another boat arrived for a downstream lockage with us—so our string of solo lockages came to an end at 27.

As we approached the third lock (Rankin) we once again had to wait for the tow—another 1 hour wait—a good lunch break.  Since Midway Marina was only 4 miles downstream from Rankin Lock, we did not have too many more miles to travel.  The lock transiting was a bit frustrating.  It took us 7 hours to travel only 21.6 miles – about 3 mph instead of our usual 8 mph.  However, it was a beautiful day to be out on the water and we still had time to get laundry and showers completed at Midway before Don came to the marina.  Gene’s cousin Shirley was under the weather, so only her husband came.  We had dinner in the marina restaurant, then Don took us to get provisions.

My back had  gone out early in the morning, so I was a little slow handling lines in the lock.  But by evening, I could move pain-free—either the ibuprofen, the southern comfort or the correct shoes helped.  Whatever the cure, it felt good again.

Day 164:   21.6 miles, Midway Marina, Fulton, MS, mm 403 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 34.29774, W 088.41983) start 0634, stop 1425

DAY 165  FRIDAY  10/3/08

Traveling on the upper Tenn-Tom means days of multiple locks.  Yesterday was three, today we should do four.

We left at 0714—a very cool morning—the second for socks on the flybridge the Captain reported.  Wisps of fog wafted up from the water.  Perfect reflections formed along the shoreline.  An osprey swooped down and caught his breakfast.  We had the waterway to ourselves.  No waiting at Fulton Lock.  Hooray!  A better start than yesterday.

Shortly after leaving the lock, Gene spotted a tow rounding a bend ahead of us.  We had visions of waiting behind it to lock through at the next two locks.  However, at the Mate’s insistence (and since the Captain had not run the engine up to high rpm for several minutes, as he usually does each day) we took the opportunity to increase speed and catch the tow. 

As we approached the bend, we found the tow over by the shoreline.  Was another tow coming downstream?  Nope—the tow was aground!  This was the first time we have seen that happen!  Wonder what his log will reflect!?

At any rate, we locked through Wilkins and Amory with no waiting again! Three locks in 32 miles in about 4 ½ hours!

Since fuel was lower in cost at Aberdeen Marina, we opted not to fuel at Midway.  This was our first time at Aberdeen Marina—what a kick.  We meandered through a swamp with stumps and cypress trees jutting out of the water.  The boat channel itself was a very narrow well-marked snaky ribbon winding through the swamp.  The marina was a gas station and fuel dock wrapped into one with boat fuel at the dock plus gas and diesel on the street-side—a rare combination.

The lockmasters on the Tenn-Tom keep track of pleasure craft and their passages through the locks.  The Aberdeen lock tender wondered if we would make his 1300 scheduled bass boat lockage – a tournament was in progress.  He knew we were coming and stopping since the Amory lock tender had called him about our plans.  We called from the fuel dock to let him know we would not make the 1300 lockage.

When we did get into the lock, the wide gates swung shut.  We waited….  Then they opened back up for a bass boat.  Gates closed….  We waited.  Then they opened up again.  Another bass boat.  Gates closed…. We waited.  They opened a third time!  Yet another bass boat.  Gates closed.  Finally the horn sounded to warn any downstream boaters that the lock was going to empty and we began our 27’ descent.  This was one of the most “customer-focused” lock tenders we have encountered.  Even if we did have to wait.

Pulled into the bay by Waverly Ferry Rec Area and tried to anchor by the abandoned railroad bridge as recommended in the cruise guide.  We did not get a good hook, so we began to pull the anchor up, but the chain (not the anchor) snagged something.  That was a bit surprising since this has seldom happened before.  We motored over that spot and eventually the chain freed itself and we hauled up the anchor.  The second attempt in a different area was also fruitless.  So we idled under the railroad bridge and through the oxbow to the far end where we dropped the hook successfully in 15’ of water.  Gene did set out a stern anchor as well so we would not swing.

A nearby fisherman motored up to us wondering what we were dragging for.  His trotline had been cut.  Perhaps he thought we had done it, but we were not in that area at all.  He later came by indicating a bass fisherman probably cut it.

That evening on the flybridge our relaxing time was cut short with some of the first mosquitoes we have experienced in three months.  They were tiny and left little bitty welts.  We quickly adjourned to the cabin.  Our months of no bugs must be coming to an end.

Another dicey back day.  More ibuprofen, southern comfort and gym shoes!

Day 165:   49.358.6 miles, Waverly Ferry Oxbow, mm 337.6 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 38.56012, W 088.49684) start 0714, stop 1703

DAY 166 SATURDAY  10/4/08

Up early for a long day of cruising and my back feels good today.  We are 1100 miles from home, about 22 days of travel, with some extra days perhaps for weather.  We need to move on to be home to vote.

Gene called Stennis Lock from our anchorage.  The lock tender indicated the chamber was full of bass boats for a 0700 lockage.  (The tournament is still in progress.)  We waited 15 minutes to leave and then had an easy solo lockage down.

The next lock, Tom Bevill, was ready for us and closed the gate after we tied up.  We waited…  then we heard C’S JOY call for a down lockage.  The gates opened and we waited a few minutes while she motored in.  Another smooth lockage down as they usually are.  Up lockages often have turbulence.  We really don’t mind waiting a few minutes to get in other boaters since we would appreciate the same courtesy extended to us.

Today was a repeat of many days on the water.  Cool morning.  Beautiful afternoon and pleasant  evening.  What  splendid weather we have had this summer.  We motored about four more hours to Sumter Rec Area, one of our favorite anchorages on the Tenn-Tom.  After checking the log from our trip here in the spring, Gene was able to find the way over the two bars at the mouth of the bay.  We were the only boat anchored.  Dragonflies flew guard around the boat catching their supper while we ate our supper on the flybridge.  As the sun went down, they flew away and the mosquitoes drove us down below.

I remarked to Gene that this spot, Ghost Bay on Bay Springs Lake, Four Mile Creek on Tellico Lake and Ball Play Creek on the Tellico River are some of our favorite secluded, wilderness anchorages.  They all have poor to no cell and internet reception.  Could there be a connection here?  No internet time could mean more time to just sit back and enjoy the nature show.

Day 166:   66.6 miles, Sumter Rec Area, mm 270 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 32.87378, W 088.18427) start 0706, stop 1631

DAY 167  SUNDAY  10/5/08

We had hoped to stay an extra day or so, but we need to move on to make it home to vote.  We never know how long a weather delay we will have when crossing Mobile Bay and/or the Gulf at the Big Bend.  This was a beautiful misty morning at anchor and I hated to leave.  As we idled out of the mouth of Sumter Rec Area, Gene followed the shoreline closely, only about 20’ from the downstream bank.  This gave us our deepest water yet – 6.7 feet .

We were only 4 miles away from Heflin Lock, and when Gene called the lockmistress (yes … a woman!), she indicated the gates were open and ready.  While transiting down smooth and solo, we enjoyed the Song of the Lock.  Not unlike that of the Humpback Whale, the lock sang a pleasing plaintive cacophony of high and low moans, groans, squeaks, squeals and howls that hauntingly echoed in the chamber.  Each bollard sang its own tune as metal slid down metal in need of a greasing.  The song and symphony is unique to each lock.

We left the lock and came upon huge clumps of water hyacinths.  In Florida, we have a sea of grass (Everglades).  In Alabama we have a sea of water hyacinths blocking the channel.  We just thought there were quite a few from Sumter to the lock.  However, below Heflin Lock, the channel was often choked with the plants.  Where is a tow when you need one?!  Like an ice breaker, we opened a path through the floating plants – which soon closed back.  This is the first year we have seen them in bloom.  A stalk of beautiful purple flowers each smaller bloom like a lovely multi-shaded purple iris.  As we plowed through multiple clogged areas and hyacinth dams, we kept a sharp eye for snags, logs, branches or other debris that may have become tangled in the clumps.  Are you ready to round up the manatee and then go on a sea cow drive from Florida to here?  That way the manatee can munch on the hyacinths in their Alabama fall feeding ground!

After the Epps city limits we noticed isolated pockets of heavy Spanish moss adorning the trees– very beautiful.  We did not realize it grew this far north.

We stopped at Demopolis Yacht Basin for fuel, had a frustratingly slow internet connection (next time try their wifi line in the boater’s lounge) and then motored a bit downstream to Foscue Creek to drop the hook for the night.  Anchorages are limited below Demopolis so we need to leave this area early in the day.

Day 167:   56 miles, Foscue Creek, just past Demopolis, AL, mm 214 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N32.51406, W87.87548) start 0647, stop 1632

LOG 15   10/6/08 – 10/22/08  

DAYS 168-184

CONTINUING DOWN THE TENN-TOM TO HOME

DAY 168 MONDAY  10/6/08

We had anchored last night in Foscue Creek by the Demopolis Coast Guard Station that had a large multi-story Coast Guard pusher and work barge at the dock.  The barge was piled with red and green buoys.  Gene recalled this was the station we called when preparing for our 75-day pontoon trip in 1997.  I had queried them about the presence of alligators on the Tenn-Tom.  I really did not want to deal with one near or on the pontoon. 

Their reply was …“There’s seldom any up here.  Although I have been swimming near them.  When my hair stands up on end, I know it’s time to get out!”  Personally, I think I’d rather swim someplace else!

Gene called the lock from our anchorage—no commercial traffic.  So anchor up at 0650.  C’sJOY also called from the Demopolis Yacht Basin and they followed us into the lock.  Sunrise was spectacular today.  I snapped a great shot of C’sJOY coming downriver from Demopolis with the sun just coming up over the trees and with the red sky, clouds and water.

Another beautiful day for cruising.  Comfortable temperatures, 70’s, slightly breezy, diamonds dancing across the water leading us downstream.  Bends in the river and misty trees beckoning us ever downstream.  Sandy banks sculpted by the rushing water have rivulets of water that drain down the bank.  It’s a beautiful waterway.  We need to enjoy it—rain may be coming!  We came upon a large, long log floating in the channel.  A confirmation that we do not want to travel after dark unless we have someone on bow watch.  Things can go “bump in the night!”

We have been enjoying our trip down the Tenn-Tom.  Once past the straight Divide cut and Canal section, it is a very scenic meandering river, sometimes supporting beaches along the shore, with tree-topped sandy or rock bluffs.   Occasionally we spot a few houses or sometimes a boat ramp, although this does not seem to be a highly developed recreation area.  There are no boat docks.  Very little evidence of man.  We usually travel alone down this wooded waterway.  Our only boat traffic during the day consisted of three oncoming tows.  We also motored under three bridges.  Wouldn’t you know, we met two of the tows under two of those bridges.  What happened to the third tow?  It must have been off schedule to not arrive at the bridge when we did!

Anchored at Bashi Creek, mm 145 just past the boat ramp.  A scenic stately tree adorned with Spanish moss guarded the entrance to the creek.  This is an anchorage recommended in the Fred Myers Cruising Guide.  We had 7’ over the bar and anchored in 13’ of water.  Probably only two or three boats could easily anchor here, since it is narrow and requires a second (stern) anchor.

Day 168:   89.0 miles, Bashi Creek, mm 145 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 31.95599, W 088.07118) start 0650, stop 1555

DAY 169 TUESDAY  10/7/08

Rains were predicted today.  Anchor up 0648.  The Captain was being nice to the Mate because of her sore back and hauled up most of the anchor.  OPPS!  The boat hook he was using decided to go for a dip in Bashi Creek, but it failed the swimming test!  “Now I know what to get you for Christmas!”  Gene declared.

A light rain kept up for a couple hours.  Gene was bundled under the helm cover on the flybridge—keeping the helm and himself dry.  At 1000 we arrived at Coffeeville Lock—our last one—but had a two hour wait as one tow was in the chamber and another getting ready for a lift down.  It was an opportunity to fix dinner and enjoy our main meal early.  Just as we finished, the lock was ready for us.

Good-Bye fresh water!  Sob. Sob.  Hello salt water and tides.  We are at sea level and have 116 miles to Mobile Bay.

This will be a long day because of our 2 hour delay at the lock and distances between anchorages.  It seems voting in the election is driving our schedule.  “I knew we should have left Tennessee earlier.”  Gene growled.  Now we seem to be on a “making miles” schedule.  Actually, it was hard to leave up north, and assuming we have no major weather delays, we should be OK.

The afternoon turned out surprisingly pleasant, since the predicted storms did not come our way.  It was cloudy and the weather beginning to cool as a front moved through.  This was the latest in the day that we have cruised on this entire trip.  82.5 miles and 11.75 hours.  Fortunately we got a boost from the outgoing tide after we past through the last lock.  At first, the tide increased our speed 0.4 mph, then as the afternoon progressed, the boost was 0.8 mph.  Every little bit helps to save fuel and shorten cruising time.

With the cloud cover, it got darker earlier and during the last hour of motoring, it was getting difficult to spot the markers.  Within 30 minutes of our anchorage, the rain began and then within 15 minutes of our anchorage—it began to pour!  We spotted the creek, turned into Three Rivers Lake, a narrow channel, and dropped the hooks.  Bow and Stern anchors.  We were both soaked by the time we were set for the night.  It had been a long time since we had had rain while traveling—in a storm while transiting Watts Bar Lock, June 22.

Day 169:   82.5 miles, Three Rivers Lake, mm 64 Tenn-Tom   (GPS N 31.28445, W 087.95764) start 0648, stop 1830

DAY 170 WEDNESDAY  10/8/08

We actually set an alarm to be sure to get up at 0600.  We wanted to leave at daylight since this would be another long day.  Anchors up 0640. 

We passed a huge construction site with about ½ mile of shoreline work and around 12-15 cranes working on the site.  Gene motored near the shore and asked a worker what was going on.  This is a site for a new steel mill—the largest in the country, owned by a German company.  All the shoreline work had been done since we passed here in May.  Quite impressive!

Around 1400, we motored through Mobile’s industrial waterfront with dredges, huge cargo ships, cable layers, tugs, pushers, barges, and cranes everywhere we looked.  Boats were being loaded, others unloaded.  Ships were in dry-dock. 

The stealth boat we saw under construction in May had flags flying and restricted area signs posted.  It must be completed.  The enormous Hawaii Super Ferry was docked next to it.

We motored by a derelict boat, now a US Coast Guard Fire Safety Detachment.  Saw lots of debris and big logs in the river and channel.  We heard they had a very high tide—must have washed all that debris into the channel.

Docked at Dog River Marina, fueled up and borrowed the courtesy car to provision.

Day 170:   75.6 miles, Dog River Marina, Mobile Bay,  (GPS N 30.56767, W 088.09000) start 0640, stop 1655

DAY 171 THURSDAY  10/9/08

Since we were only going to Ingram Bayou, we left at 0838.  The first half of Mobile Bay was to be “smooth” according to NOAA, but we did have 1’-2’ rolling seas hitting us on the beam.  As we turned the corner for the last half of the bay, it flattened out for a beautiful ride.

Shortly after we turned on the GICW, we passed a tow with an unusual small barge on the front.  It looked like an extra motor or heater, but we saw no connections from it.  Gene called the Captain.  It was a secondary propulsion unit to power and steer the tow.  He has controls for it at his helm—like a “joy stick for a video game,” he indicated.  It gives his pusher an extra boost of power for the entire tow, but more importantly it is used to steer the front of the barge.  Very unusual!

Anchored in Ingram Bayou at 1418.  A pair of dolphins welcomed us back—mamma and baby.  Two different ECCO tour pontoons came into the bayou.  Passengers with cameras were looking for wildlife….(and took our picture!)  A boat even came back early the next morning for a sunrise cruise—slowly and quietly motoring up the bay to its inner reaches.

Day 171:   43.2 miles, Ingram Bayou, mm 163 GICW Orange Beach, AL (GPS N 30.31930, W 087.55470) start 0838, stop 1418

DAY 172 FRIDAY  10/10/08

We took a leisurely start since we thought we would only go to Spanish Point on Perdido Key, 15 miles away.  We looked at the weather, and saw winds and waves predicted in a couple days.  Looking at our upcoming crossings of Choctawhatchee Bay, 35 miles long, and West and East Bays around Panama City, it seemed like we needed to get across them as soon as possible since strong east winds will be coming, potentially making those crossings very rough.

We changed our plans and decided to go to mm 215 (behind an island by Ft. Walton Beach).  As we got near, Choctawhatchee Bay was smooth, so we decided to motor two more hours to mm 230 and drop the hook just in the mouth of Joe’s Bayou.  This is a very busy spot with a boat ramp farther in and houses with docks all along shore.  What a contrast from our serene, secluded smooth anchorages with little evidence of man to this busy popular, wavy, even noisy anchorage with boats coming and going and small planes and private jets and landing and taking off.  But that’s part of the world of boating.

Day 172:   66.0 miles, Joe’s Bayou, mm 230 GICW Choctawhatchee Bay, (GPS N 30.41400, W 086.49272) start 0755, stop 1701

DAY 173 SATURDAY  10/11/08

The wind picked up during the night, so it was pretty rocky sleeping.  Up at 0530 to get an early start.  Anchor up 0625.  The winds were 10-15 mph with gusts to 20 mph.  I had to hang on while on the bow washing the anchor and hosing off the mud.  Some 2’ seas on the bow but mainly disorganized waves.  Today we wanted to get Choctawhatchee Bay, near Ft. Walton Beach, and then West and East Bays by Panama City before some really hefty winds picked up.  As we made a slight turn on Choctawhatchee, after 2 hours, the water smoothed out for the rest of the day.

While in the narrow 15 mile cut called “The Canyon” between this bay and West Bay, fourteen “go fast” boats barreled past us at approximately 40-50 mph one after the other.  It must have been a “go fast” club out for a cruise.  Fortunately, at that speed, their wakes were not nearly as bad as we thought they would be.  Gene kept angling in and out of the wakes one after another while watching toward the stern for more oncoming boats.

To pass the time, we did some mental exercises.  We’ll allow the “go fast” boats a generous 1 mile per gallon.  If they were going 50 mph, the 14 boats would burn about 700 gallons per hour.  At $4 per gallon, that is $2800 per hour!  From Ft. Walton Beach to Panama City is roughly 50 miles.  Later after lunch we saw them go out into the Gulf at Panama City, probably to return home.  Transportation costs for that lunch could be a little pricey.  If you have to ask “how much,” you can’t afford it!

West and East Bays were surprisingly calm, even though windy.  We pulled into Murray Bayou on the east end of East Bay—not a scenic anchorage with a shipbuilding facility on shore.  But in this area, there is little to choose from.  We had stopped here earlier this year on our trip north.

Winds looked good for crossing St. George Sound from Apalachicola to Carrabelle (Dog Island) on Tuesday, the open runs in the Gulf from Dog Island to Steinhatchee on Wednesday, and Steinhatchee to Tarpon Springs on Thursday.  We will need to hold up near Apalachicola until Tuesday.

Day 173:   74.9 miles, Murray Bayou, East Bay, mm 306 GICW,  (GPS N 30.03230, W 085.48189) start 0625, stop 1618  internet good

DAY 174-175  SUNDAY-MONDAY  10/12/08-10/13/08

The 0625 whistle at the ship building plant blew as a five-minute warning that work was about to begin.  Then another whistle at 0630.  End of sleeping!

We motored out of East Bay through a cypress swamp in a narrow river, then into shallow Lake Wimico, and finally into the Jackson River.  About 7 miles from Apalachicola, we pulled into Saul Creek and anchored before the Saul Creek cut-off branch (in the vertical leg of a “Y”).  We found 9’ of water on the starboard shore while there was over 20’ on the port shore.  Gene put out a stern anchor to keep from swinging into shore.

This is a very scenic secluded anchorage.  Actually, it is a local hurricane hole, well protected.  Cypress trees and cypress knees lined the shore with a mix of mangroves.  Occasionally small boats would motor past us to fish or perhaps just out for a Sunday boat ride. 

Monday 1013, since the winds on St. George Sound were not good, we hung an extra day here waiting for smoother seas.  Surprisingly we had a very good internet connection—in the boonies—even though it showed only one bar broadband.  I was able to do a lot of internet work. 

We had a beautiful evening on the flybridge with the moon almost full and no bugs.  Too bad we don’t have an anchorage like this near home.  This is worthy of a “favorite anchorage” status.

Day 174-175:   40.2 miles, Saul Creek, just before the Saul Creek cut-off, (in the vertical leg of a “Y”), mm 345 GICW near Apalachicola, FL   (GPS N 29.78964, W 085.05057) start 0745, stop 1311 CT,  good internet 

DAY 176 TUESDAY  10/14/08

Since the winds were predicted to settle in the afternoon on St. George Sound, we waited until 1000 to pull anchors.  Motored into Apalachicola, Scipio Creek Marina.  Took on fuel, water, dropped off garbage and used engine oil.

We ate lunch at Papa Joe’s right at the marina.  Oysters and scallops.  YUM!  It was the best meal out for a long time.  Their “tarter sauce” is fantastic.

We waited about another hour for the winds to settle so I printed off a copy of my entire manuscript.  YEA!  Progress!  Now we can proof it for the almost final time and Gene hopefully can get his “head around the book.”  He’s been proofing the stories in a very random order as I finished them, so he is not really sure where the book is going.

Left Scipio Creek Marina at 1430.  Apalachicola Bay was very windy, 15-20 mph with gusts to 26 mph and somewhat lumpy, but as we got into St. George Sound it settled more and more and was fairly calm as we approached Dog Island.

Our wave height/wind speed website from NOAA with graphical forecasts seemed to be fairly reliable.  That gives us confidance as we look ahead to the two open water runs coming up.

Tomorrow morning we will see if the waves are settled enough to go to Steinhatchee.  3’ waves are predicted in the AM.  We really want 2’ and under.

We sat on the flybridge watching sunset and the moon rise one after the other.  It was a beautiful evening—slight breeze lapping on the hull, moon diamonds dancing on the water.  What an evening!  We called our friend, Bob Dunham, and filed our float plan for leaving in the morning to Steinhatchee.  We’ll email him when we get there.

Day 176:   37.8 miles, Dog Island east of Tyson Harbor by Carrabelle, FL, Big Bend (GPS N 29.82395, W 084.58371) start 1002, stop 1844  internet excellent

DAY 177 WEDNESDAY  10/15/08

The winds picked up during the night and when we got up at 0600, we really didn’t think we would be moving today.  Got on the NOAA wave height prediction website and the seas appeared better today than last night.  3-footers at 0500, 2’ seas at 0800, 1’ by 1100 and flat by 1700.  Tomorrow is even better.  With 2’ and 1’ waves all day. 

We decided to leave at 0730, with a promise of settling by 0800.  Well—the log from last night needs to be amended a bit!  It recorded—“it seems the wave forecast is fairly reliable.”  Well—not quite!  Sometimes they speak with forked tongue and lie. 

We had 3’ waves with an occasional 4’.  A very rough, wet ride.  Bow splash blew over us on the flybridge more times than we could count.  The most of any trip to date.  Our Rubbermaid bins on the flybridge were sliding around under the helm.  The bike bags kept bouncing back and forth.  One folding chair would not stayed bungeed.  In the cabin below, a cookbook fell off the shelf into some water and a few other things were tumbling around—even though we moved and secured most items.

As Gene moved from the flybridge to the ladder to go below, he crawled on his knees to keep his balance—we were bucking, bouncing, rocking, and rolling.  The wind started about 20 mph at 0800 and slowly decreased to 8 mph at 1500.  By 1200, the seas began to calm down.  So much for the 0800 and 1100 promise of calm seas!  Then by 1400, it was quite flat and a comfortable ride.

The 20 mph easterly winds on the bow are what gave us the lumpy ride.  Of course, later Gene said he doesn’t like waves on the stern or beam seas either.  Actually, “I don’t like waves at all!”  He declared.  I agreed.  We need to remember and repeat often when preparing for an open water run.  “Only 1’-2’ seas, and not on the bow.” 

Around 1200, Gene noticed a crab pot off our port.  As we looked for the line of pots, we were just about on top of one and he reacted quickly to steer around it.  We certainly don’t need to catch a crab trap!  We kept a sharp eye out for more lines of pots.  This was just after Gene had said, “Notice we’ve had no crab pots.”

Around 1300, a group of five dolphins swam at our bow.  There appeared to be one adult and the rest were kids.  They stayed with us about 15 minutes or for 2 miles, swimming just under the bow, cutting back and forth, and jumping out of the water.  Having a ball!  It was a great diversion for us.

The second five hours of this trip were a lot more pleasant than the first five hours of this 78-mile day.  It almost makes me want to go boating tomorrow—for an even longer run of 117 miles!

The rest of the trip was so smooth, I was even able to write this log while crusing.  I couldn’t even keep the log on my lap earlier, much less write in it.  At 1658 arrived at River Haven Marina in Steinhatchee and fueled up.  Gene washed all the salt off the boat and then we washed all the salt off our bodies!  We were beat!  Hit the sack early.  Looks good to go to Anclote Key, just outside of Tarpon Springs tomorrow.

Day 177:   74.8 miles, River Haven Marina Steinhatchee, Big Bend   (GPS N 29.66830, W 083.37830) start 0740, stop 1700  internet none; use their WIFI

DAY 178 THURSDAY  10/16/08

In order to maximize our time today, since it is a long run (117 miles) to Anclote Key, we decided to leave the marina about an hour before daylight.  The long channel into Steinhatchee is marked but narrow.  It is 5.2 miles from the marina to marker 1 out in the Gulf, about a 50 minute trip.  Only the last 2 miles are straight.  The first 3 miles are twisting. 

We left at 0620, in the dark and in the fog, slowly picking our way from marker to marker.  We used a large hand held spotlight to find the next marker.  As we made the last turn in the twisting section, we could not locate the next set of markers in the straight section.  Gene put the engine in neutral until we oriented ourselves and knew which way to proceed.  We finally spotted our marker and motored on to marker 1 without anymore confusion. 

When we passed marker 1, at 0703, it was still relatively dark, yet light enough to spot crap pots …. And crab pots we saw …  In the first hour, I counted over 200 and then gave up.  We dodged crab pots half of the 13-hour trip!  We had 1’-2’ waves on the stern which made the boat a little squirrelly but not too bad for the autopilot to handle.  When we arrived at Anclote Key, at 1856, the sun was just setting, as planned.  We averaged 9.3mph vs the 11.5 mph on this run previously.  Since we slowed the pace this time, we used about 1/3 less fuel than on previous runs, and that amounted to a 25 gal savings.

We anchored at Anclote Key, which is a barrier island offshore from Tarpon Springs.  Even though this run was longer than yesterday’s, we felt better than the day before when our 10-hour trip to Steinhatchee “beat us up.”  We called our friend, Bob Dunham, to close our float plan.  Overall, it was a good, even though long open water run.

Day 178:   117.8 miles, Anclote Key, outside Tarpon Springs, mm150 GICW  (GPS N 28.19183 W 082.83747) start 0620, stop 1856  internet good 3-4 bars

DAY 179-180  FRIDAY-SATURDAY  10/17/08-10/18/08

We had considered slowing the pace today and not go far.  However, … do we detect a common thread here?! … after Gene checked the wind and wave height forecast for today and tomorrow, Tampa Bay was good today and bad the next.  We decided to make the outside run from Clearwater Pass through Tampa Bay today.  The wind and wave gods were smiling on us since the only waves we saw were made by other boats!

Arrived at our Jewfish Key anchorage off Longboat Key at 1705.  With all the big open water runs behind us, we finally did slow down and stayed here an extra day just to hang out—read, putter and work on my book. 

When making the outside run just before Tampa Bay, I washed my hair and the motion sickness patch I had behind my ear evidently came off.  It had worked remarkably well.  No tummy problems for the big runs.  Well—one half hour after it fell off, during the smooth run across Tampa Bay, my tum-tum started acting up and lasted throughout the evening.  Go figure.  The lumpy rides were fine.  On the smooth ride, I get queasy!  My stomach must have said…”you can fool me some of the time…but not all the time.  I will have the final word!”  And it did!  By Saturday, I felt better.

Saturday, late afternoon, the winds began to pick up and change direction.  We had anchored out from the shore, so as a couple boats left the anchorage we moved in closer to tuck in from the north winds.  It was musical boats, since as other boats left, one moving to Moore’s Crab House dock for the night, we moved again!  Other boats also came in to anchor.  By morning, the winds had shifted again—out of the east, and we probably would have been better off in our original spot.  It was a bit of a rocky, “lappy” night.

Day 179-180:   60.0 miles, Jewfish Key off Longboat Key, mm 85 GICW   (GPS N 27.43814, W 082.67848) start 0950, stop 1705, internet excellent

DAY 181 SUNDAY  10/19/08

Today we headed to Englewood to find an anchorage and visit with friends who live nearby.  As we left the Jewfish Key anchorage, and proceeded down the main ICW channel Gene saw only 2.5’ of water under our boat.  It was skinny water with a falling tide.  Later when crossing Sarasota Bay, we heard a sailboat had run aground at that spot.  One boat tried to “wake” it off unsuccessfully.  It will probably be there awhile since the tide will not shift for several more hours.  Later we heard that BoatUS had pulled it off.  This happened at Green marker 39.

After going under the Englewood Causeway Bridge we turned to starboard and took the channel toward the anchorage near Englewood Beach, then followed it along Manasota Key to Stump Pass.  This was new water for us!  Since it was a Sunday afternoon, folks were fishing, skiing, tubing, and enjoying the water.   The Key was very narrow here with easy access to the Gulf side beach.  The channel was also narrow, often quite shallow, in fact at one point we had 0.2 feet under us when two boats coming toward us sandwiched us between them.  As their wakes met, we hit our low water mark.  Locals call this Ski Alley.

More boats were beached near the outlet of the Alley at Stump Pass Inlet.  We crossed over the inlet to a protected anchorage off the end of Thorton Key.  We had 9’ of water and put out two anchors because of the swift tidal flow.  New water and a new anchorage—one of our last days on the trip.

We called Jerry and Linda and they will pick us up in their boat in the morning.

Day 181:   46.8 miles, Stump Pass by inlet, mm 41 GICW   (GPS N 26.89800, W 082.33495) start 0907, stop 1546, internet excellent

DAY 182 MONDAY  10/20/08

As the tide shifted, our stern anchor slipped.  So we hauled both anchors and moved around the south side of the large island by Stump Pass Inlet and closer to the GICW.  Yesterday as a Coast Guard Auxilary boat passed us while we were at anchor, Gene asked about access to the GICW this way.  They suggested going to the nearby point on Thorton Key and heading toward green marker 17.  This gave us good water and we anchored outside the channel near green 17 with bow and stern hooks.  Essentially the charts are accurate for this area. 

Jerry and Linda picked us up in their Grady White and we had a great visit with them and his mother while catching up on summer and family activities and enjoying lunch.  After taking us to provision, they took us back to our boat.  The entrance channel to their house is quite shallow and does not look good for the WE BE BLEST III to come in—even in high tide.  However, with this anchorage at green 17 it is a good dinghy ride in to their house.  We stayed at this anchorage for the night.

Day 182:   0.6 miles, Stump Pass by channel green 17, mm 41 GICW   (GPS N 26.89936, W 082.33018) start 0820, stop 0832, internet excellent

DAY 183 TUESDAY  10/21/08

After we pulled anchor at 0940, we found that the deep water we were in continued to the channel at marker 17, even though that is not clear on the charts.  The contour lines just end.

Around marker 13, we poked our nose into an area even closer to Jerry’s entrance channel where he had seen sailboats anchored.  We could not find the deeper water over the bar.  Perhaps the entrance for this area is farther downstream.  We will check it out next time we are in the area.

This was a beautiful day for cruising—sunny, pleasant temps, light winds.  We headed to Pelican Bay at Cayo Costa.  We had thought about staying a couple days here as we wait to meet our Yacht Club at the Franklin Lock (12 miles past our home port) next week.  However, weather was predicted to move in Thursday and Friday with winds and rain, so we thought it best to move close to the lock to a more protected area.

Day 183:   17.6 miles, Pelican Bay, Cayo Costa , mm 25 GICW   (GPS N 26.68590 W 082.24212) start 0949, stop 1225, internet good

DAY 184 WEDNESDAY  10/22/08  Our last day!

Six months to the day Gene and I left on this cruise .  “Take your Mate for a date,” our calendar read for April 22.  This has been one fine date!

However, our sea conditions last night were less than fine—we bounced up and down, kited, rocked sideways all night long—not a restful sleep.  Strong winds continued in the morning, so we decided for sure to head out.  Yesterday afternoon, it was hard thinking about leaving here, a favorite anchorage.  This morning, it was much easier!

However, after we passed Cabbage Key the seas were pleasant, 15 mph winds.  Stronger ones are predicted Thursday and Friday.

This will be the last day for our 2008 Tennessee River Cruise.  We will head to Ft. Myers Yacht Basin to fuel up so we can calculate the trip details.

This has been a wonderful six-month summer trip.  We found numerous new anchorages.  We saw the Tenn-Tom with new eyes as we cruised up the waterway taking a leisurely pace instead of trying to “get to the Gulf.”  We discovered new boating friends, connected with Loopers we knew, met several writers, and managed shore excursions to visit our kids and grandkids.  The WE BE BLEST III cruised on familiar and new waters as we explored rivers and channels.  We boated to the Smokey Mountains again—finding our most scenic anchorages on Tellico Lake. 

We discussed the possibility of a summer “boat” on the Tennessee River in a few years with room for family or friends to come cruising with us.  A place to teach the grandkids about living and playing on the water.  A way to share God’s blessings and wonders on the water.  Truly WE BE BLEST!

In the past, I had mentioned to Gene, I needed a secluded, scenic place to work on my book.  He gave me that and more as we dropped the hook and had an ever-changing view of nature.  I was passionate and driven as I worked hours reviewing, polishing and preparing the manuscript.  My goal achieved—I will have a Pre-Publication Family Edition of Reflections on the Water: Traveling the Waterways with God ready for Christmas.

We arrived at home port at 1450, and then proceeded on to the Franklin Locks for a few days of quiet and catch-up before the Yacht Club Halloween festivities begin on Sunday.

Day 184:   41.0 miles, home port, mm 133.3 ICW  (GPS N 26.67830, W 081.86000) start 0840, stop 1450

Final trip totals

6 months (184 days)

3221 Miles

38 locks, 27 solo lockages in a row

Average speed: 7.4 mph

Longest distance and day: 117 miles in 12.5 hours

96 Nights at anchor    

53 Nights in marina on boat   

34 Nights in marina (shore excursions)