WE BE BLEST
GEORGIA TO VIRGINIA 2005
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GEORGIA TO VIRGINIA

LOG 7       5/7-5/12

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Read about the Georgia tidal marshes, successful tidal anchorages, and hanging out on the May River in South Carolina.  Connecting with Westerbeke in Charleston.

SATURDAY, 5/7 

            Cast off at 0820.  A beautiful day weather wise -- fairly calm water, sunny, in the 70’s.  What a pleasant change from yesterday.  We saw a number of dolphins swimming near the boat.

 

            About 0930 we left Florida and the WE BE BLEST III motored into Georgia waters for the first time.  At 1315 we stopped at the ships store at Jekyl Island Marina.  This island has bike paths encircling and crossing the island -- a great place to come back to another time.  We bypassed St. Mary’s, Jekyl Island and Brunswick since we want to get up to Jan’s cousin on Monday.  These will be good stops when we do our St. Johns River trip in the future.

           

            We crossed several expansive sounds today.  At times the markers got a touch confusing.  The image stabilizing binocs are just fantastic for finding our way.  Of course, the Captain has his GPS which tracks where we are and shows the magenta ICW sailing line as well.  To clear the shoaling in St. Andrew’s Sound, mm690, it appeared we had to motor out into the Atlantic and then back inland.

 

            We passed Kings Bay Nuclear Sub Base about mm710, just above the FL-GA line.  A security vessel with its light flashing kept boats from approaching too closely.  About an hour after we passed  the base, we heard a Security  warning that a naval vessel was leaving and heading out to the Atlantic. Darn!  We just missed seeing it!

 

            Anchored in Jove Creek.  It was very shallow coming in, but we were able to feel our way to deeper water and anchored in 12’ at low tide.  We should have an 8’ tidal swing.  We got a good bite with our Bruce, so only used the one anchor with our 80’ of chain and then 40’ of rode.  We’ll see how this holds.  All we see around us is mud and marsh grass and as the tide comes in we were raised above the grass.  This gave a a great view of the marshes in all directions.  We are in the boonies -- an occasional tree and shrub, but no development at all.

 

1520 anchored in Jove Creek mm671.  49.8 milles traveled today

 

 

SUNDAY, 5/8             MOTHER’S DAY

            Happy Mother’s Day to the Mate and all the mothers reading this log.  The Captain said he’d take the Mate out to eat today.  Of course, “out to eat” is a relative phrase.  We anchored in an unnamed creek for the night after motoring through 60 miles of Georgia’s saltwater marshes.  We are outside and we will be eating -- after he cooks dinner.  So I guess the Captain did take the Mate out to eat!  Actually he fixed a wonderfully gourmet dinner of pork loin sautéed with garlic, onion, peppers, Swiss cheese and white wine.  Yum!

 

            Unlike our first anchorage in the high tidal waters, last night’s anchorage was a real pleasure.  Our solid hook held and we swung with the tides.  Anchor up at 0820.  Shortly after that, two dolphins cruised with us on our port side.  We saw quite a few more during the day, but none of them swam with us.  We even had one at our anchorage tonight.

 

            We crossed several of Georgia’s sounds today -- Buttermilk, Doboy, Sapelo, and St. Catherine’s Sounds.  Some of these are fairly wide, long and exposed.  Fortunately, it was a beautiful sunny day with light breezes, so we had no rough crossings. 

 

            Traveling with the tidal currents is interesting.  Usually we cruise at 2200 rpm at a speed of 8 mph with no current.  As we motor through the tidal rivers, depending on whether they are at flood tide or ebb tide, our speed will be boosted to 10-11 mph or dragged down to 6-7 mph. 

 

            As we motor up the rivers from one sound to another, the direction of the flow changes somewhere between the two sounds, depending on the terrain and the streams that feed the river.  Thus if we enter the river from the lower sound on a flood tide and head northerly, the tidal current is pushing us along, but as we reach the part of the river that flows into the other sound farther north, the flood tide is now on our bow and slowing us down.  Of course, as the tide changes, so does the direction of these currents.  It does make for interesting cruising.  Today the tidal current seemed to be against us for three quarters of the time, so we cruised more at 7 mph than 9 mph.

 

            After we passed Jekyl Island yesterday, we’ve not seen much but tidal marshes for 75 miles.  Tomorrow we’ll be in Bluffton at Jan’s cousins, Don and Kate.  They have arranged with a neighbor for us to stay at their dock on the May River.  It has 20-25’ of water so with the 8’ today range we need not be concerned about going aground at low tide.  Don and Kate’s boat, a small Carolina Skiff, often sits in the mud with the tidal swings, so we did not want to tie up at their dock.

 

            Today a group of 14 neighbors from our park, Old Bridge Village, left on four boats for the Bahamas.  We would have loved to go with them.  The timing was just not right.  May they have a safe and enjoyable voyage.

 

1530  anchored in unnamed creek mm611        9’ tidal swing    58.3 miles traveled today.

 

 

MONDAY, 5/9

            Anchor up 0710.  The Mate got up early for the second day in a row!  Another good night at anchor.  Picking creeks that originate in marshes seems to work well for anchoring.  The tidal current is not as swift as in the rivers or creeks that connect to other rivers.  The “dead end” anchorage is preferred to the “through” anchorage.

 

            1120 we watched a huge ocean-going vessel coming out of the Savannah River toward the Atlantic.  When we first spotted it off in the distance through the trees, we thought it was a shipyard with cranes that had unloaded and stacked shipping containers.  As we motored closer, we realized it was a ship with cranes and the containers were stacked 8 high by 12 across the beam and 15 or more in the rows down the length of the ship.  It was enormous.

 

            We’re passing marinas, towns and housing developments today, not as much tidal marsh.  We’ve had the current pushing us on our stern most of the day and reached a top speed of 11 mph.

 

            At mm560 near Bluffton, SC we motored 8 miles up the May River to our host’s dock.  George and Lillian Heyward are friends of Jan’s cousins and graciously offered us the use of their floating dock.  We’ll stay with Don and Kate for several days, catch up on each other’s families and let our mail catch up to us as well.

 

            Docked 8 miles up the May River at Bluffton, SC          58 miles traveled today Tidal swing 9.5’

 

 

 

TUESDAY-THURSDAY,   5/10-5/12

            Engines One in Portsmouth, Virginia is the regional distributor for Westerbeke in the central Atlantic area.  They have been extremely timely with returning messages and obtaining information.  We will be stopping in Charleston, SC at Ashley Marina to have their Westerbeke technician check to see if the generator can indeed be dismantled a bit and also be reassembled down in the tight engine compartment space.

 

            We’ve enjoyed our visit with Don and Kate, seeing their kids and grandkids, shopping, smoking chickens, watching a chick flick (no men of course!), and taking in the beautiful views from their riverside home on the May River.  The Captain was even able to work on some projects on the boat.  Wednesday the four of us took an evening dinner cruise on the WE BE BLEST, complete with Don and Kate’s local narrative about housing developments along shore and stories of oystering.  Gene’s smoked chicken was on the menu. A visit with our dock hosts, George and Lillian and later seeing another friend Jack made for a wonderful evening.  We’ll head back to the ICW on Friday and work our way to Charleston.

 

* * *

 

LOG 8                5/13-5/15

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Friday the 13th woes...Biking in beautiful Beaufort, SC...

 

A dolphin head butt and a fantastic anchorage...

 

5kw genset ... To be or not to be ... That is the question

 

FRIDAY, 5/13                        FRIDAY THE 13TH

            We said our good byes to Don and Kate and slept on the boat last night at Heyward’s dock.  Don and Kate left for the Keys this morning with their Airstream trailer and two other couples with Airstreams.  They will be gone on a ten-day vacation.

 

            George and Lillian left in the fog at 0715 this morning taking their trawler, Voyager to Savannah to have it hauled out of the water and bottom painted.  We waved and wished bon voyage to each other.

 

            0830 cast off from Heyward’s dock and headed toward Beaufort, SC.  We saw a pod of about 5-6 dolphins, but they were not interested in catching a ride in our wake.

 

            Did I say today was Friday the 13th??  1200 fueled up at Beaufort Downtown Municipal Marina and docked there for a couple hours to ride our bikes around town.  However as the Captain began walking his bike off the dock, he noticed the front tire was flat.  So back to the boat.  Luckily we had the spare he picked up in Stuart after our first flat tire on the Mate’s bike.  New tire in place pumped up with our hand pump, off we rode to explore the streets of Beaufort enjoying the large old homes built in the West Indies style with high basements and spacious verandahs to allow for maximum coolness during the hot summer days.

 

            Magnificent live oak trees grace many of Beaufort’s streets and it was noticeably cooler as we rode under their extensive canopies.  Ferns covered the top edges of long sprawling limbs draped with Spanish moss.  Several of the trees were simply breathtaking -- stately, sprawling giants with limbs outstretched in all directions supporting an abundance of life.

 

            The Mate called to the Captain as he rode out from the canopy of one huge tree.  “Wait!  I need to take pictures of this tree.  There may be a story here.”  As I write this log I sense a story germinating -- Lessons from a Live Oak.  We’ll wait and see what comes out of my pen.

 

            Back on the boat, we anchored in Factory Creek, mm 539.5 just east of Ladies Island Bridge in Beaufort.  The Captain wanted to change oil.  Did I mention it was Friday the 13th today??  As he pulled his four-gallon oil change system from the bowels of the lazarette, used oil dripped from one of the hoses -- a minor mess, but perhaps an omen he should have heeded to abort the oil change.

 

            However continuing on, the system pumped the used oil easily into the four-gallon bucket with only a few drops splashed from the oil filter.  A successful oil change -- until the Captain attempted to pump the used oil from the four-gallon bucket back into the empty gallon containers.  “Humm -- no oil is coming out of the hose!  Oh no!”  One hose connection came apart and sloshed over a pint of that black thick smelly oil all over the bilge, under the battery boxes, under the water tank, over tools ... Just a general mess.  About 45 minutes and innumerable disposable wipes later, the mess was gone.  Holding that errant connection, the Captain resumed pumping into the gallon jugs.  Did I mention it was Friday the 13th?? 

 

            This time the top connection came apart and sprayed oil onto the throw rug and carpet by the hatch cover.  “Jan, I need your help here,” I heard as I studied charts on the flybridge.  Relieved to find he was not injured, I addressed the oil soaked rugs while Gene continued to clean the bilge.  Did I mention it was Friday the 13th??

 

            We’re not superstitious -- but we are wiser.  Transfer the used oil ONLY on land.  100 years from now this really won’t matter.  Life has its bumps in the road.  This one happened to be a big oil slick.  We can laugh at ourselves and be thankful we are still living the dream.

 

1500    Mm539.5  anchored in Factory Creek              8’ tidal swing                32.5 miles traveled       

 

 

SATURDAY 5/14

            0430    Bang!  Bump!  Slap!  Bounce!  Simultaneously we both bolted upright and jumped out of bed, wide-awake.  “What was that?  Did something hit us?  Did we drag anchor and run aground?”  Fumbling for our glasses in the dark, we saw nothing but a few waves off our stern.  The water was deep.  We were in our same location.  We surmised the wake from a passing boat must have slapped the hull at precisely the right angle to create the bounce and noise.  That certainly disturbed a peaceful night’s rest!

 

            Anchor up at 1030.  A lazy Saturday morning.  We only had to motor 40 miles to our anchorage at Tom Creek mm 495.7.  This will put us about 20 miles from Charleston.  We’ll take a slip there tomorrow and be ready for the Westerbeke technician Monday morning.

 

            This anchorage is amazing.  After motoring through innumerable dredged areas of constant shoaling with depths of only 6-10 feet at high tide, we turned into Tom Creek and found water 20-30  feet deep. No dredging takes place here.  The tidal flow must keep it deep.

 

            What a beautiful anchorage this is: a narrow winding creek thru the tidal marsh.  A fairly unusual sight, thick trees line the edges of the marsh.  Dolphins swim nearby.  Pelicans splat in the water stunning and then swallowing their supper.  Songbirds fill the air with their music.  The WE BE BLEST III slowly drifts back and forth in the gentle breeze.  The sun is shining.  The temperature is pleasant.  The “no-see-ums” have not yet started their daily attack.  Life is Good!  Thanks God!  What a beautiful world You’ve given us!  Friday the 13th??  Bah humbug!  God’s blessing can far outshine any ol’ oil slick.  We only need to stop, look, listen and enjoy!

 

            After supper, observing three large dolphins swimming very close to the boat, the Captain wondered aloud if last night’s episode might have been caused by a dolphin striking our boat while chasing something.  We did experience bumps in the night from dolphins chasing fish a few years ago while tied to the seawall at South Seas Plantation on Captiva Island.  The waves we saw last night seemed to radiate from our boat, so a dolphin encounter or dolphin head butt seems to be a likely explanation.

 

 

SUNDAY, 5/15           We left home 1 month ago.

            Today is Pentecost Sunday.  We had church aboard ship at our anchorage, reading and discussing the Scriptures.  On this day, the apostles were filled with the Holy Spirit.  As they preached, people from many different lands heard them speaking in their own native tongues. 

 

            Max Lucado’s book, Just Like Jesus, talks about being God’s translator -- enabling others to know, understand and love God.  May the logs and writings from the WE BE BLEST help you to catch a clearer glimpse of our great and loving God, and the wonderful world He’s created for us.

 

            Anchor up at 0955.  On the way to Charleston, SC, we picked up a dolphin riding the waves immediately in front of the WE BE BLEST.  The Mate happened to be on the bow and saw him gliding along effortlessly, rolling over belly up then back upright, cruising with us.  It was great!

 

            1320 we arrived at Ashley Marina in Charleston, took a slip for the night and began the task of washing the salt and grime off the boat.  The Captain installed the remaining four Alpenglow Lights in the cabin.  We now have six low amp fluorescent lights.  These will be much cooler than the factory installed incandescent lights and will use much less power.  This should significantly reduce the battery drain.  Tomorrow the Westerbeke technician will be giving us a visit. A 5.0 kw Westerbeke Generator:  to be or not to be.  That is the question.  Tomorrow may have the answer.

 

Mm469            Ashley Marina, Charleston, SC 4’ tidal swing    28.4 miles traveled

Total miles traveled in one month           712.4 miles

 

* * *

 

LOG 9                5/16-5/20

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Charleston is a'callin'      Beautiful tidal marsh anchorages.

The fantastic Waccama River ... cypress trees, Spanish moss and our best anchorage yet. 

This is what boating is all about!

 

Meeting friends ...          Skinny water warning

The 5kw genset ... To be or not to be ... That STILL is the question

 

MONDAY, 5/16

            We talked with the mechanics at Ashley Marina this morning.  They had taken the 3.8 generator like ours out of two other boats.  We’re hearing about more of these faulty generators as we travel.  Westerbeke certainly has a big problem with them.  Upon questioning, we learned they did refund money for the genset, but labor charges are still up for discussion depending on who did the installation.

 

            Later one of the mechanics came onboard.  After some discussion and a little measuring his opinion was that the 5.0 is too big for our space and it would be very difficult to do some of the servicing.  We decided to get a second opinion at Wilmington to show our good faith to Westerbeke to try to use their 5.0 (which we would like to have).  However, the Captain also left a message with our corporate Westerbeke contact to continue pursuing a reimbursement if it will not fit.

 

            Charleston was now calling!  So the Captain unpacked the bikes and off we rode to explore the downtown historical district -- Waterfront Park with an enormous very lovely pineapple fountain, the beautifully restored homes along the Battery, cobblestone streets and the single and double houses.  Single houses are one room wide, double are two rooms wide.  Most were single houses.  Speculation indicated taxes may have been based on street frontage, thus most folks built the single houses..

 

            We found a bike shop to replace our spare tube and as we looked for a lunch spot, it began to rain.  We stopped at South End Brewery which had good food, but their beer in no way compared to A1A  in St. Augustine.  During lunch, the skies opened up and it poured, flooding several streets.  Eventually we braved the elements, donned our thin yellow Niagara Falls ponchos we keep in the back packs, and rode to the  Visitor’s Center where we watched a film about Charleston.  We had planned on taking a tour, but since we were cold and wet we changed our mind.

           

            Heading to the grocery store we retraced our ride from the Brewery looking for a bicycle cargo net Jan had on the back of her bike.  It must have fallen off in the rain.  We never found it.  Now we need to buy two of them since they are great for holding packages on the back rack.

 

            There’s much more to see in Charleston, but the bends in the river keep beckoning.

 

 

TUESDAY, 5/17

            Cast off 0920 after motoring next door to the City Marina for fuel.  The huge super high speed pumps were difficult to use without spilling diesel on the boat -- even with the flow throttled down almost all the way from 40 gallons per minute to just about nothing.  The Captain decided he does not want to use that kind of pump again! 

 

           

            We began the day motoring from the flybridge, where we are at least 95% of the time.  However a storm drove us below, the first time this trip that rain drove us down.  We had come below during a cold spell earlier.  Today it poured.  Thunder and lightning boomed and cracked nearby.  Visibility was poor.  But we were warm and cozy in the cabin.  Love this Camano!

 

            The storm passed after about 30 minutes, but still rained off and on all day.  So we stayed below and anchored later in Minim Creek, mm 415.4 at 1620.

 

mm 415.4         Minim Creek    3’ tidal swing                55.1 miles traveled today         

 

WEDNESDAY, 5/18

            Anchor up 0830.  Another beautiful anchorage in the tidal marsh.  The marsh grass was shades of green with some reddish tips.  It grew tall, perhaps 5 feet.  After pulling anchor, the Mate began wiping down the deck utilizing God’s boat wash -- the rainwater -- to clean the salt spray off the WE BE BLEST.  Wiping the walkway by the cockpit, she noticed a hitchhiker aboard -- a rather large bright green frog.  He needed a bit of coaxing to be convinced he did not want to travel to Georgetown with us.  Eventually he hopped off the deck and back into the water.

 

            As the Mate was down below, the Captain was thoroughly enjoying his morning on the flybridge.  After traveling for days and days in the beautiful Georgia-South Carolina tidal marsh, realizing there are hundreds and hundreds of thousands of acres of marsh, we now began to see trees growing along the shoreline.  The change in scenery put the Captain in a “state of euphoria.”  Motoring up the AICW, having it almost exclusively to ourselves, is a unique opportunity.  He was at ease, at peace, enjoying the world God has given us. 

 

            Later the marsh totally gave way to dense forests of tall cypress trees decorated with draping Spanish Moss as we meandered up the snaky Waccamaw River 25 miles north of Georgetown, SC.  This is described as some of the most scenic parts of the AICW.  It’s nature at its best -- brilliant shades of green, cypress knees jutting out of the water, osprey swooping from tree to tree, sun shining, a slight breeze.  There are no structures, houses or developments.  Rounding a bend it’s hard to tell man has even been here -- until you see a nav aid or an occasional marina sign.  Cruising at 8-9 mph -- LIFE IS GOOD!  The Captain decided he much prefers the beauty of nature at anchor or while cruising as we’re seeing it today to being tied up at a marina with the land “stuff.”

 

            Nevertheless, we need exercise too -- and an ice cream cone -- so we pulled into the Harborwalk Marina in Georgetown for a couple of hours.  It does not have the new floating docks as advertised two years ago -- problems with permits. 

 

            Georgetown, like Charleston had visionaries several decades ago who tirelessly encouraged and labored for the restoration and revitalization of their historical areas including parks, fountains and waterfront walkways.  We enjoyed riding our bikes around the many old homes, now nicely painted and landscaped, dating back to the 1800’s and even 1700’s.  Plaques by the doors displayed the date they were built and their number in the historical register.  One beautiful old home was 235 years old (1770).  We doubt that our double wide will last that long!

 

            Back on the waterway, at 1730 we left the ICW at mm 375 (Enterprise Landing), near green “27”, turned to port up Enterprise Creek and dropped anchor in a triangular basin by red marker “2”  where the creek rejoins the Waccama River.  What a delightful surprise was in store for us.  (I give detailed descriptions of anchorage locations so other boaters can enjoy our “finds” as well!)

 

1730    mm 375            Enterprise Creek          tidal range 2’                44.9 miles traveled today

 

 

THURSDAY, 5/19

            Last night we anchored at the tranquil triangular junction of the Waccama River and Enterprise Creek.  What a fantastic anchorage!  The rivers seldom flow straight, so no matter which direction we face there are bends in the river beckoning us to explore what’s around the corner.  A dense forest of green contrasts against the grayish trunks and limbs of the tall stately cypress trees that grace the shoreline.  Draping Spanish moss enhances their beauty while an early morning fog wafting along the water’s surface adds to the mystery.  Last night after the bass boats pulled into the nearby landing and the breeze quieted down, and this morning as well, perfect mirror images of the forest appeared on the water’s surface all along the shore.  Leaves, twigs, and bubbles of foam floating on the surface silently coast by as the tide slowly comes in for its first time today.  The songbirds continue their melodies, woodpeckers attack their trees with the sound of a machine gun, hooting owls come awake in the evening, other birds caw and call back and forth.  An occasional fish jumps and splashes in the river. 

 

            Except for the red triangular number 2 nav aid on a post in the water and a white reflector nailed to a nearby tree there are no signs of man.  What a beautiful pristine world God created for us that perhaps few really enjoy.  One needs to stop, drop anchor, sit, watch, listen and await the calm stillness as the lowering and rising sun spotlights the trees in the evening and early morning, as the birds begin their symphony of praise and as the fog transforms this into a primal world of mystery and delight.

 

            Last night as we enjoyed supper on the flybridge -- free from the incessant daily attack of the tidal marsh no-see-ums -- we savored the world God has given us and praised Him for His creation.  We discussed how comfortable we are in the middle of the woods swinging on one anchor -- especially the Mate who was raised in the city.  Finding discoveries such as this is what traveling and living on a boat is all about for us.  We thought about boaters who only stay in marinas.  How much they miss.  How much we’ve found.  LIFE IS GOOD.  WE BE BLEST.

 

            Reluctantly pulled anchor at 0745.  For a change, the Mate hit the sack early last night, 1110, instead of her usual midnight to 1 am, so she was up early at 0600 to enjoy the new morning fog.

 

            As we headed toward Dock Holidays Marina at mm 348 to meet some friends in N. Myrtle Beach, we savored the scent of the many fragrant flowering bushes and vines along the shore -- perhaps crepe myrtle, honeysuckle, or jasmine.  Shortly past the Socastee Swing Bridge mm 371 our beautiful lush fragrant forests gave way to the Myrtle Beach civilization -- houses, condos, golf courses, high tower cranes in the distance, extensive clear cut areas.  Developers have cut down acres of trees for miles along the ICW and then they sculpt golf courses, erect condominiums, or wait to build homes.  It’s sad sometimes the price natural settings must endure for man to have recreation and a view.

 

           

 

            We took a slip at Dock Holidays and met with Pat and Lewis Hunt, former Camano owners who are still involved in ECCO the East Coast Camano Owners group.  Once again we talked Camanos and boating.  There will be a gathering of ECCO members in Hampton, VA June 7-9.  We’ll see if we are in the area to stay for it.  We can meet more owners and glean a wealth of local knowledge as well.

 

1120    mm 348, Dock Holidays Marina  2’ tidal swing  

27.1 miles traveled today  840 miles total

 

 

FRIDAY, 5/20

            Cast off at 0633.  We have two low bridges to pass this morning.  The Little River Inlet Bridge at mm 347.3 opens on demand.  The Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge, mm 338, 10 miles away, only opens on the hour.  Needing to leave on a half hour to make the 1¼-hour trip to the pontoon bridge, we left early to try for the 0800 opening.  This pontoon bridge (the last one of this type on the Atlantic) does not open if the tide is too low.  Boats must then wait another hour, two, or three for the tide to come up again.

 

            Fortunately, we passed through the inlet bridge with very little wait and arrived 15 minutes early at the pontoon bridge.  The tides were with us -- thank goodness -- and by 0810, we were past the pontoon bridge and on our way to Wrightsville Beach, NC mm 284 where we’ll meet up with friends and have the generator space evaluated again.

 

            Shallotte Inlet mm 330 was quite shallow.  The waterway guides warned of shoaling between markers 80 and 82.  We found 1.5’ under us as we slowly motored through the skinny water.

           

            At mm 322 just above Holden Beach some people really, really, REALLY want to get to the water.  There was a v-e-r-y long pier jutting out from the woods over the marsh to the water.  It was at least ¼ mile long.  We never did see the house back in the trees.

           

            Around 1130 above Southport, NC mm 309, we entered the Cape Fear River for a 10 mile run up the river to Snows Cut.  This brings us closer to the more protected Myrtle Grove Sound near the Atlantic.  The Cape Fear River is very wide, at times 2 miles across.  It is a major shipping channel to the Atlantic and the current always runs fast. 

 

            Today we fought an ebb tide slowing us down while the wind at our back created following seas pushing the stern around.  Anytime the tide and wind oppose one another this creates a potential for rough water.  At our usual 8 mph, the WE BE BLEST was hard to control because of the waves on our stern.  So the Captain bumped it up to 10-12 mph and that made the boat a lot easier to control. 

 

            A short rain drove us down below.  After lunch on the run, we resumed cruising from the flybridge.  Of all the sounds or wide waters, this was our first unpleasant crossing.  All the others have been quite smooth.  Today’s crossing wasn’t rough.  It didn’t have high seas.  It was simply not enjoyable.  However, the really big water of Pamlico Sound and Albemarle Sound are yet to come.

 

            Pulled into Seapath Yacht Club in Wrightsville Beach at 1440 as the winds picked up and jet-black clouds filled the sky above us.  The Captain skillfully, expertly, perfectly turned the WE BE BLEST in a rather narrow channel and backed her into the slip despite the winds.  Well, perhaps he was just lucky!  We secured the WE BE BLEST just moments before the heavens opened up with a deluge, thoroughly washing her clean of any traces of salt water.  Had we delayed a few moments anywhere along the way today, the Mate would be totally drenched now.

 

            Around 1603 Drew from Precision Marine came to evaluate the space for the 5.0 kw genset.  It will be very tight, slight modifications need to be made, but he feels it will go in.  However, the boat will have to be hauled to complete the work.  It’s now up to corporate to decide yea or nay.

 

1440    mm283 Seapath Yacht Club Marina     2’ tidal swing    65.5 miles traveled

 

* * *

 

LOG 10     5/21-5/22

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Laughing with friends ... and more laughing.

 

Sticking our nose in the Atlantic

A major decision of the day ... Dinner.   Please, please, please Ken, not McDonald's!

"Laughter kills cancer cells."      Nurse Betty's Rx:  Lots of laughter

The 5kw genset ... To be or not to be ... That STILL is the question.

 

SATURDAY, 5/21

            Last night was a great night to be in a marina.  High winds.  Lightning.  Downpours.  We were safe and snug tied up to the dock, although the lines and straps squeaked and rattled during the night.  Much  better, though than being on anchor through a storm!

 

            Today Bill and Jane Knight and Lynn and Ken Koele came over from NC and SC for a visit.  Gene, in his past life, worked with Bill and Ken although they both have moved on to other companies.  We were all part of the WPL River Rats (with two other couples) when we’d get together on our pontoon cruising the Mississippi or the Wisconsin Rivers.  It’s good to catch up on each other’s families and activities.  Bill will be joining the ranks of the retired soon.

 

            We cruised the Wrightsville Beach area and even stuck our nose into the Atlantic.  Although, as we motored away from the jetties, the swells kept increasing in size.  As the six of us were discussing one’s comfort level in waves and how far we wanted to go, it didn’t take Jane very long to say, “OK.  That’s far enough!”  We all agreed and promptly turned around and headed back to calmer water.  The Captain tuned into the marine forecast and those were 4-5’ swells.  We prefer 2’s.  Thank you very much!  The clouds dissipated giving way to a gorgeous afternoon and, since it was the “hour of happiness,” we dropped anchor and soaked up the good life on the flybridge.

 

            Around 1800 we motored back to the marina with no wind or storms to interfere with docking this time.  However, the Captain had problems maneuvering the turn and getting into the slip, even taking a second pass.  Perhaps he was lucky yesterday!  "Opps, I pushed the wrong bow thruster," he confessed.

 

            Since Ken had the vehicle that could carry six passengers, by default he was the group's driver.  The major decision of the day, after determining how far to motor out in the Atlantic, was where to have dinner.  With five back seat drivers, Ken had plenty of advice.  “Turn left”.  “Turn right.”  “Let’s eat on the beach.”  “Two hour wait?”  “But this is a great parking spot!”  Ken was ready for McDonald’s. 

 

            We headed toward Wilmington.  “They’ll have plenty of restaurants.”  Wrong!  We did find dead ends however.  “How many times can Ken drive past McDonald’s before he gives up and pulls in,” the Mate worried.  At last!  There’s Carrabba’s.  There went Carrabba’s.  No driveway in sight.  A very circuitous route finally brought us to their door.  There’s nothing like a nice fashionably late dinner at 9:30 and then hitting the sack shortly thereafter.  Oh well, that’s what good times with friends are all about!  Lot’s of laughter!

 

 

SUNDAY, 5/22

            The crew agreed to have a second day of reminiscing and laughing.  Ken and Lynn came mid morning so we could stock up and reprovision at the local grocery store.  No need to carry food in the backpacks today ... We’ve got a car to haul it now!  So stock up we did. 

 

            The Captain grilled chickens and after Jane and Bill returned, we took a short cruise, dropped anchor and continued the fun.  Watching the Mate do her thing with lines, fenders, anchors and washdown hoses, Bill remarked, “Jan, you’re just like a busy worker bee.  Gene, you’ve got the easy job!” 

 

            We had such a solid hook with the anchor, the Mate declared, “Well, we’re set for the night.  You four are on your own to get back to your cars!”  However, having compassion for our friends -- it was a long swim -- we took them back to the marina around 1600, snapped groups pictures, and said our good-byes.  It’s a special blessing to spend time with friends and to laugh with one another and at ourselves.  As our dear friend nurse Betty claims, “Laughter kills cancer cells!”  In that case ... Her Rx: Keep on laughing.

 

            After motoring back to the Wrightsville Beach anchorage area, we set the hook again and waited for the dawn of a new day and the decision from Westerbeke.

 

* * *

LOG 11     5/23-5/28

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

A Memorial Day Holiday reflection:  THE SOUNDS OF FREEDOM

 

The 5kw genset ... To be or not to be ... Is That STILL is the question?  The answer is …

           

MONDAY, 5/23

            Heavy rains and wind last night but we had a good bite with our anchor.  We began the day with our “Sunday Church Service” -- on Monday, since we missed it yesterday.  Some folks go on Saturday, some on Sunday and even some on Monday!

 

           

            Then we stayed on the hook off Wrightsville Beach all day.  The Mate worked seven hours on the computer reformatting her manuscript for publication with Xlibris.  The Captain read books and puttered as we waited to hear from Westerbeke. 

 

            After several phone calls (late AM from George, about 3 PM from Bob – corporate Westerbeke, to George later, then 6:30PM from George) to and from George the local rep and Bob, the corporate rep, they are considering putting in the 5.0 genset.  A dollar figure needs to be sent to corporate.  In the meantime, George suggested we head to Beaufort, NC where he has another branch with a lift that can easily haul the boat.

 

            That afternoon the Captain noticed water by the galley fridge.  It had defrosted and the charge in the house batteries was down.  After investigating, he was surprised to discover the laptops draw up to 20 amps on a 12V system.  In 5 hours they can use up the charge in one house battery.  If we want to be at anchor for several days, we do need a reliable generator to keep the batteries recharged.

 

 

TUESDAY, 5/24

            Anchor up at 0740 heading North.  This morning the cabin was decorated with towels and rags drying from last night’s OPPS!  When the rain began around 1900, we closed the cabin windows, but forgot the port light in the head.  The hatch under the window was open and bottles, meds, towels, and other stuff got wet.  OPPS!  Oh well, it was time for the Mate to reorganize that area anyway!  No damage done.  It’s just important to have everything bone dry when stored on a boat.

 

            1015 Arrived early at the Surf City Bridge, mm 260.7.  It has a 12’ reported clearance (10’ actual today) and only opens on the hour.  We need 15’ with the biminis up, 12’ with them down.  It takes approximately 10 minutes to open the bridge, allow boats to pass and close it again.  We wondered what the bridge tender does the other 50 minutes of each hour!  On the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers we wait for locks, as we travel the AICW we wait for bridges, although many of the low spans have been replaced with 65’ clearance high-rise bridges.

 

            Anchored in Hummock Bay offshore of Camp Lejeune, NC.  We were the first boat in the bay, but by evening six other boats encircled us -- 2 sailboats, 3 trawlers and 1 custom built motoryacht flying a foreign flag and equipped with stabilizers for ocean cruising.

 

            No news from Westerbeke.

 

 

WEDNESDAY, 5/25              THE SOUNDS OF FREEDOM

            Yesterday we motored through the NC USMC Reservation around Camp Lejeune.  Cruising up the waterway from the south we observed a C130 make several lumbering passes across the river flying toward the western shore.  During one pass 10-12 paratroopers jumped from the plane, slowly floating behind the trees back to land.  Memories of our oldest son Daron came flooding back -- an Army Airborne Radar Operator who jumped 27 times during his training.  We heard the distant artillery practice all afternoon and occasionally even felt their vibrations.

 

            Last night, still in the Marine Corps Reservation, we anchored in Mile Hammock Bay a protected area dredged out in 2001 by the Marine Corps with two long docks for their military shallow draft landing crafts.  Tied to one of the docks was an old large military ship different from any we had seen before.  It looked like a landing craft, because the bow appeared to have a ramp.  The most peculiar feature was the cylindrical portion amidships with multiple small windows providing 360-degree visibility.  Only one ladder toward the stern was in sight, no doors.  Entrance must have been from below or via the ladder.  Most likely, this was the helm, which not only had excellent visibility, but good protection from enemy fire.  The only armament we saw was one sizable gun mounted near the bow.

 

            We dropped anchor, pulled back to ensure a solid hook and floated the afternoon away, watching six other boats join us in the bay.  They dropped anchor, encircling us -- 2 sailboats, 3 trawlers and 1 custom built motoryacht flying a foreign flag and equipped with stabilizers for ocean cruising.  

 

            Safely secure in our anchorage, the “thud” of the explosions from the artillery of varying caliber continued on into the night.  Fighter jets buzzed the bay, flying in close formation.  After the jets landed, helicopters practiced night landings and maneuvers, flying low, circling the bay with each pass.  We recalled our nephew Jamie flew a chopper perhaps similar to these when he was in the Marine Corps.  Surprisingly, we slept well.  Our night was peaceful and quiet.  If maneuvers were taking place, they were relatively silent ones.

 

            The cruise guide reported this to be a popular anchorage and it proved to be so as one by one the six other boats anchored around us, although the guide did indicate that because of frequent military activity and exercises it could be a “less than tranquil anchorage.”  Responding to a comment about the noise, one LOOPER declared: “That’s the sound of freedom!”  We listened to the artillery and watched the aircraft practice their maneuvers with new ears and eyes.  “That’s the sound of freedom!” we affirmed to each other.

 

            After being one of the last boats to leave the bay this morning, we motored toward Beaufort, NC.  Still in the Marine Corps Reservation, we passed through a ten-mile long live ammunition firing range.  At mm 145 and mm 135 a large sign equipped with flashing lights warned:

 

STOP DO NOT PROCEED

LIVE FIRING IN PROGRESS

WHEN FLASHING

TUNE TO AM 530

 

If the lights were flashing, we were not to proceed.  A military boat would patrol each end to keep boaters out of the area.

                                                                                                                                    

            We read in the cruising guide that occasionally the waterway was closed because amphibious assaults would take place as well as live firing across the river to the dunes on the ocean side.  However, today it was clear and safe for us to pass.  The only evidence we did see of any military activity in the firing range were several abandoned and wrecked tanks stuck in the dunes, probably artillery targets.

 

           

           

 

            Reflecting on our passage through the Marine Corps Reservation, the bay and firing range we truly saw and heard with new eyes and ears.  We were not disturbed or aggravated, but instead comforted and assured.  We affirmed to each other many times: “That’s the sound of freedom!”

 

            Indeed it is: FREEDOM and SAFETY.  We have no need to fear.

           

            Watching rumbling C130’s make slow long passes and parachutes quietly pop open as marines practice an airborne assault …

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            Seeing screaming jet fighters streak across the sky in tight formation ...

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            Anchoring in a peaceful bay dredged by the Marine Corps beside an unmanned, military vessel with guns quiet ...

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            Following the whump, whump, whump of the helicopters circling around the bay, practicing landings and night maneuvers ...

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            Hearing and feeling the dull thud of the artillery going off all day and evening ...

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            Motoring through the quiet live firing range safely, calmly, peacefully ...

                        “That’s the sound of freedom!” ... Not an enemy attack.

 

            These marines may be playing “war games,” but it’s very serious business.  They are learning how to defend and preserve our freedom.  Because of them, we have a multitude of freedoms in this country to do what we wish and to go where we please.  Because of them boaters like us can easily travel the waterways of our country, hanging on the hook in safety.

 

            From the comfort of our boat, we can listen and watch the aircraft and maneuvers knowing they are training missions.  It’s not an attack.  We need not be afraid.

 

            C130’s rumbling, jet fighters screaming, helicopters circling, artillery booming in the distance ...

A noisy anchorage?

 

Not at all.

That’s the sound of freedom!

Thank you Lord!

May we never take it for granted.

God bless the USA!

 

 

THURSDAY 5/26

            Yesterday afternoon we anchored in Pelletier Creek mm 209 by Moorehead City West.  There is a small bay to the port just past green daymarker “5.’  The cruise guides mentioned anchoring at the junction of the two prongs of the creek, but we felt that was in the middle of traffic and preferred the bay instead.  We were the only boat anchored in the creek.  Homes, condos and a couple of marinas lined the shore.  Most of the boats were sport fishing boats.  We never found a dinghy dock, but on old salt cleaning his crab trap said we could tie up at the docks.  This was at the end of the left finger and a short block from the highway. A left turn took us to West Marine, Kmart, a grocery, and a fresh fish market.  We enjoyed jumbo shrimp and wahoo for dinner today.  Yum!

 

            The Mate wrote, worked on her book and the Captain puttered and read.  We stayed here tonight as well.

 

 

FRIDAY-SATURDAY, 5/27-5/28

            The continuing saga of the ill-fated Westerbeke 3.8 “suitcase” generator.

            To be or not to be: was that still the question?  NOT ... That’s the answer!

 

            The Captain made a number of calls to the local reps, the regional reps and the corporate rep -- using our very limited and precious week-day Verizon cell phone minutes.  Messages were left and returned.  He kept posing questions about the installation and servicing of the 5.0 kw genset.  “Will it go through the hatch?”  “It can probably be taken apart,” was the answer.  “Can it be put back together in that confined space?”  I'm not sure this was really addressed.  “What about servicing?  Do I need to get at the back?  If so it would need to be moved.”  The clincher question the Captain posed was “Does it need to be serviced from the top?  If so, there is no room -- zero clearance.”  Westerbeke finally acknowledged this was too big for our boat.  The corporate powers to be are now putting their heads together to come up with a settlement.

           

            We have made the decision to go with a NextGen generator and have contacted their rep in the Oriental, NC area.  Having put this whole business in the Lord’s hands and asking for His wisdom it turns out they “happen” to have one in stock, no need to wait for it to be ordered and delivered, and they will be able to work us into their schedule after the Memorial Day holiday.

 

            Thus on Friday we headed to Beaufort, NC for the holiday and took a slip in Town Creek Marina for three nights.  A stop to reprovision, recharge house batteries -- we had anchored out the last 5 nights, wash the boat, do laundry, use the computers at the library and see the sights.  There’s just so much to do and not enough time to do it all!  Living on a boat, we have all the mundane maintenance stuff as well as the fun stuff of coming to a new area.

 

            The Mate has been struggling and agonizing over the choice of fonts for her book’s cover and interior.  Traveling on the boat has complicated the issue.  Finally, after a second trip at the Beaufort library’s computer station she struck paydirt and found the cover font.  A prototype cover page affirmed the choice.  Hooray!  Just this morning, the Captain asked her, “Just how long will it be until you choose the font?  Two weeks?”  “No, Sir!  With God’s help, two hours!”

 

            We wandered around the waterfront, ducking in and out of shops, watching the boaters in the marina watch the folks on shore.  I think most boats and boaters are like the bass boats and bass fishermen.  They hop in their boat and race like mad to get to the other side of the lake to fish for that big one.  Bass boats from the north end of the lake, streak over to the south end, while at the same time, bass boats from the south end are tearing over to the north side.  The unwritten law is to go to the other side of the lake.

 

            Cruisers seem to do something similar.  They hop in their boat, leave the home marina and head to a neighboring marina, take a slip, plug it to electric, and sit on their boat all weekend.  At the same time, boats from this second marina cruise to the first, plug in and sit.  Isn’t it strange?  I guess that’s life!  Their boat is merely a floating cabin.

           

* * *

 

LOG 12     5/29

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Touring Beaufort, NC...

           ...the Maritime Museum

                           ... the Coast Guard begins

 

A Memorial Day reflection:  THE SOUNDS OF FREEDOM ... the "REST OF THE STORY"

 

SUNDAY, 5/29

            Yesterday afternoon we rode our bikes to the Maritime Museum at the Beaufort waterfront.  What a fascinating adventure in time and history.  They had shipbuilding displays, a fantastic display of shells from around the world, and historical information on the fishing and seafood industry.  What caught the Mate’s interest was the origin of the US Coast Guard, formed by joining three maritime services.  Let me step back in time.

                       

            The US Light House Service, USLHS, was established in 1789 to provide support, maintenance, and repairs for light houses, beacons, buoys, and public piers in order to render navigation easy and safe.

 

            In 1790, the US Revenue-Cutter Service, USRCS, formed primarily to collect duties on goods imported into our fledging country.  The USRCS employed small-armed schooners and sloops.  Their efforts helped put our young nation on sound economic footing.

 

            Then 80 years later in 1871, the US Life Saving Service, USLSS, began and created shore based stations to render assistance to shipwrecked mariners in the Atlantic, Pacific, Gulf of Mexico, and the Great Lakes.  North Carolina had 29 stations, many along the hazardous Outer Banks -- the Graveyard of the Atlantic.  Over 500 wrecks were plotted on a National Geographic map from Cape Lookout at Beaufort, NC to Cape Henry on the Chesapeake Bay near Norfolk, VA.  Boats went down mainly because of fog, storms and wars.  To be a member of the USLSS a person had to live in the area of his/her station.  Night patrols with lanterns walked the beaches keeping an eye out for the frequent ships which ran aground.  It was a dangerous service rescuing men, women, and children from sinking and grounded ships.

 

           

           

            In 1915 the USCRS and the USLHS merged to form the US Coast Guard and included the USLSS as well in 1939, tapping into and incorporating the talents and expertise of each agency.  Today’s Coast Guard is responsible for enforcing all navigation regulations for inland and federal waters, the documentation of vessels, the operation of all aids to navigation, port security and search and rescue operations.

 

            Documentation is the federal registration of vessels, in lieu of state registration.  The boat name and hailing port must be displayed.  When traveling into a foreign country, documentation is preferred over state registration since proof of ownership is more readily verified.

           

            As an aside, when we documented the WE BE BLEST, of any federal agency we have ever had to deal with, the Coast Guard has been the most responsive, easy to reach, very helpful and cordial.  Will wonders never cease!

 

            This morning we attended a waterfront church service.  Rev. Fred Simpson founded the Intracoastal Waterfolk Ministries about 10 years ago and provides spiritual food to the mariners and visitors around Beaufort.  I heard about the service from Laura Lee Covington, one of the shopkeepers (Personally Yours by the sea) along the boardwalk who told me about it when she noticed my cross around my neck.  This was perfect timing.  We had asked about a Catholic Church in the area, but it was across the high rise bridge, over the sound to Morehead City -- much too far and dangerous on our bikes.

 

            After prayer and songs Fred spoke about the price many have paid for the freedoms we enjoy today and also about POW’s who have been freed.  We too are POW’s in the battle between good and evil.  Jesus paid the ultimate price to set us free.  As Fred spoke, I felt a stirring within -- my story, THE SOUND OF FREEDOM is only half written.  Here was the “rest of the story” as Paul Harvey would say.  The sound of my spiritual freedom, THE ULTIMATE FREEDOM, is a story brewing within, yet to come out of my pen.  Stay  tuned!

 

* * *

 

LOG 13     5/30-6/5

Greetings from the  WE BE BLEST III,

READ ALL ABOUT IT! 

    The next generation in generators!

           

    How were the crossings of those big sounds?

 

    An irresponsible captain ... (not ours)

 

MONDAY 5/30

            Today we motored to the Oriental, NC area and up the Neuse River 10 miles west of the ICW to Wayfarers Cove which previously was Mannasott Beach Yacht Basin.  Stanley, the NextGen distributor, recommended this marina and Don the mechanic as well.    We really enjoyed this sleepy marina as the generator was changed out.  It was located in a creek one had to see to believe.

 

           

 

             Looking at the creek from the ICW we never would have entered it had we not known there was a marina tucked inside.  The entrance was narrow and wooded.  The creek turned hard to port shortly after entering, then hard to starboard, and starboard again as it meandered and turned this way and that deeper into the woods.  The marina basin was a narrow channel only about 100’-120’ wide, densely wooded on one side with slips lining the other.  Because the channel curved so much, we never saw all the boats at one time.  The 100 or so vessels were sailboats except for a handful of trawlers.

 

            More than once, as the Captain sat in the cabin enjoying the woods and water he remarked, “I really like this marina!”  After several days, while the Mate was walking back to the boat along the dock, checking out the sailboats and the woods across the narrow channel, it occurred to her why the Captain enjoyed it so.  This marina is probably the closest thing to anchoring out while being tied to a slip in a marina.  No boat on our starboard, dense woods across the channel, most boats deserted -- a quiet, scenic, peaceful place.  Yup!  Almost like anchoring out!

 

Wayfarers Cove Marina           27.3 miles traveled today

 

 

TUESDAY, 5/31

            Today is the last day the errant Westerbeke will be installed on the WE BE BLEST III.  Don the mechanic at Wayfarers Cove Marina came first thing this morning to check out the job.  The problem with getting the genset in and out is not so much the weight (200#), but the awkward angle to lift it out and set it in.  Just not “back-friendly!”  After a brief inspection and discussion with the Captain-engineer, a plan was formulated.

 

            The Captain removed the electrical, cooling water, fuel and exhaust connections and secured a heavy line to the generator tying a large loop in one end.

 

            0115    Don and Joe, his “muscular reinforcements” returned after lunch to peruse the situation.

            0125    They returned to the boat with a couple 2x4’s and ran them through the loop in the line.

            0130    Lifting the 2x4’s Don and Joe picked the 200# generator out of the bilge fairly effortlessly while it swung suspended from the line.

 

            A little engineering goes a long way.  We recall Ray Bohlman and Jr. “horsing” this genset in and out with their bare hands, straining and injuring their backs.  Today in less than 5 minutes -- it’s out!  HOORAY!

 

            During the afternoon we got a message from NOMAD, a Camano from Naples, Florida.  They left a couple weeks after we did and were heading to the Camano Rendezvous in Hampton, VA June 7-9.  They finally caught us, but were in the marina at Oriental, 10 miles down river.  We borrowed the courtesy car, drove over to see the Phelps’, talked Camanos over a dish of ice cream.  Neighboring boaters were also hanging out at the ice cream shop.  What a delightful evening we all had.  It was packed with boating stories and laughter.

 

 

 

 

WEDNESDAY, 6/1

            The new generator was in stock but we were waiting a day for some of the extra parts and fittings.  In the meantime, Don installed the bracket the genset will rest upon, and the Captain made preparations for the installation of the new unit.  The Mate utilized the days here working on her manuscript.  It’s getting closer to submittal to the publisher.  Yeah!

 

 

THURSDAY, 6/2

            The rains from earlier in the week calmed down and held off this morning as we motored the WE BE BLEST over to the travel lift for a haul out.  A through-hull fitting had to be enlarged.  Slings were tightened up around her hull and she slowly rose out of the water.  “Take good care of her!  Treat her gently!” the Mate called to the mechanics as she climbed off the boat onto the landing.  The travel lift rolled backwards away from the water and the WE BE BLEST hung suspended 4’ above the ground. 

 

            While the mechanics enlarged the generator cooling water thru hull, the Captain inspected the four zincs and was surprised to see how much they were consumed.  Sacrificial zincs they were!  The bow thruster zinc was completely gone.  The teardrop zinc on the rudder was almost gone.  He changed the shaft zinc and the big plate zinc under the swim platform as well.  Fortunately, we had all four spares on board.  We never anticipated having to change them only a month and a half after leaving home.  This haul out was very timely!

 

            Actually the haul out was very timely indeed -- for a second reason -- not only for replacing the zincs,  but we found about 150’ of TROT line with nasty hooks wrapped tightly around the shaft.  Had it remained, it could have restricted the water to the cutlass bearing, perhaps causing a failure.  “Very timely haulout indeed!” The Captain remarked as he struggled to cut off the net without snagging his fingers on the rusty hooks.

 

            While Don and Joe finished the thru hull work, the Mate scraped the few barnacles that had begun to grow, and then the Captain and Mate cleaned the hull below the rub rails.  The jobs completed, the WE BE BLEST was returned back to the water. Don and Joe spun her around and then lowered the new generator into the cockpit using the crane on the travel lift.  Much better than “horsing it on board by hand!

 

            Back at our slip, Don, Joe and the Captain again used their engineering techniques with line and 2x4’s to lower, twist, cock, maneuver, push, pull and finally lower the new 3.5 KW NextGen generator on its supporting brackets in the bilge.  HOORAY!  It fits!  And no injured backs!

 

            The Captain resumed his “bilge rat” position under and around the new genset rehooking the fuel, electrical, exhaust and cooling water lines.  By Friday noon he had the genset purring like a kitten -- well perhaps roaring!  We’re back in the generation business -- and with the distinction and claim to fame of having not one but two generators on board -- one in the bilge operational and one in the cockpit waiting to be taken to Norfolk to the Westerbeke dealer.  All we need now is to get our money back from them!

 

            Pete and Brenda, the marina owners were very friendly and helpful.  They recently purchased the marina and surrounding land and are developing it into Wayfarers Cove -- a waterfront complex to include upscale 3000 sq ft estate homes, 2000 sq ft cottages, golf course, and marina.  Construction begins next week.  Our sleepy marina will be vastly different next year!

           

            We borrowed the courtesy car, which actually was Pete’s personal car, reprovisioned, and enjoyed a great seafood dinner at Gary’s Down East Restaurant.  A good celebration of the Captain’s genset installation and progress on the manuscript.

 

            We were pleasantly surprised with the bill.  After five nights in the marina plus total installation of the genset including haul-out and labor our bill was only $720.  There was no charge for slip rental and only 4.3 hours of labor.  God was good to us with this new generator.  It was in stock, easy to switch out, relatively inexpensive installation and the days we stayed in the marina were rainy and bad travel days anyway.  A good time to be tied to the docks!

 

 

SATURDAY, 6/4

            We left Wayfarers Cove early on an overcast, drizzly morning and headed to Dowry Creek Marina mm 134, motoring up the wide Neuse River and across Palmico Sound.  Both can have potentially rough crossings because of wind and waves.  However, God was good and gave us smooth water -- sometimes even like glass.  Tomorrow we’ll traverse the Alligator River and cross Albemarle Sound -- the widest sound on the AICW, very shallow and again one which can provide nasty crossings.

 

            Around 1500 we pulled into Dowry Creek Marina.  There were several other LOOPERs here, so we’re not the last boat heading around the loop.  Another Camano was tied to the dock.  Connie and Ray Mack on WANDERER had been heading up to the Camano gathering.  They were in the narrow Pungo River Canal when a 50’ Sea Ray passed them within 10’ at full speed.  It created such a wake the Camano heeled over 45 degrees back and forth, knocking Ray out of the helm chair onto Connie who cushioned his fall, saving Ray from injury.  But then the helm chair landed on Connie and ripped her arm open almost down to the muscle.  After motoring back to Dowry Creek Marina, a waiting ambulance took them to the hospital at Bellhaven and 22 stitches later, they returned to the boat.  The captain of the passing boat never hailed them or slowed down.  He just passed like a streak and kept on going.  He was long gone by the time Ray and Connie could even catch their breath.  Totally irresponsible!  Some folks say: “He must have gone to Sea Ray School!”  We too have encountered a number of impolite and irresponsible boaters, but the majority of them are quite courteous.

 

Mm 134  Dowry Creek Marina            58.9 miles traveled today

 

 

SUNDAY, 6/5

            We wanted to try to get to Elizabeth City today, an 80-mile run, so we cast off at 0630.  The waters were calm, with a little fog as we entered the Alligator River.  Farther on Albemarle Sound was somewhere between smooth and glassy.  We had a great sunny pleasant crossing.  Once again, God blessed us with smooth sounds.

 

            Elizabeth City welcomes boaters to the southern end of the Great Dismal Swamp.  Every day at 5 pm they bring roses for the ladies and wine and cheese for the boaters.  Plus the town dock is free.  What hospitality!  For two reasons we had to take this route instead of the new Virginia route to Norfolk -- the first was seeing the Rose Buddies, the second was the Swamp.  Any route called the Great Dismal Swamp is not to be missed!

 

            We’ve gone over 1000 miles thus far -- 5000 or so more to go!

 

 

SUNDAY.  6/5 CONTINUED

                Coming into the Elizabeth City Dock the winds were strong -- blowing us into the sea wall.  Backing into the slip, we were a bit of a dog and pony show.  The Mate was successful in getting a line around the outside pilings for the bow -- but it still pulled is in toward the seawall.  We needed a spring line forward to the piling.  Oh well, a good learning experience and we didn’t bump the wall.  It took quite a while to get our lines set, keeping us off the wall, off the pilings, and near to the small dock to step of the boat easily.

 

Mm 51             Elizabeth free town dock           81.1 miles traveled today

 

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LOG 14     6/6-6/10

Greetings from the WE BE BLEST III,

Where can you get free docking, roses, wine and cheese?

 

How dismal is the Great Dismal Swamp?

 

How many "cute little boats" AKA Camano's made it to the Hampton Rendezvous?

 

What did the Captain say when he kissed the generator?

 

MONDAY, 6/6

                        Yesterday the boaters at Elizabeth City gathered at the dock around 1700.  That’s when Fred Fearing, the original Rose Buddy, comes with wine and cheese to greet the visiting boaters.  He’s 92 and started the tradition 23 years age.  Although today he did not come until after 1800 (He was at a baseball game.)  In addition, without the wine and cheese (He apologized.).  However, he did clip fresh roses from the bushes growing near the docks and passed them out to the ladies.  This was a good time to meet and socialize with other boaters. 

 

            Today we traveled the Great Dismal Swamp and left Elizabeth City in time to catch the 0830 bridge lifting and later the 1100 lockage at South Mills.  Once through the lock we were in the Great Dismal Swamp Canal.  The three sailboats ahead of us stopped at the NC Visitor’s Center just a few miles up the canal.  They tied to the dock, which was now full, so we rafted off to one of them.  By late afternoon they could be rafted several boats deep.  This is a popular free dock in the Canal.  We popped into the visitor’s center, watched a couple videos on the history of Swamp and Canal and then headed back up the river.  We’ll stop someplace farther up.

 

            The Great Dismal Swamp was a formidable obstacle to early explorers and settlers -- “a vast body of dirt and nastiness.”  Yet I contained thousands of acres of trees waiting to be logged.  A canal through the swamp would connect North Carolina and Virginia and provide a means to remove the timber.

 

            Construction on the Great Dismal Swamp Canal began in 1793 and continued for 12 years.  It was hand dug by slaves -- slogging their way through the muck, dense undergrowth, and forests -- and don’t forget the bugs and snakes.  In 1805 the 22 miles long canal was opened to shallow draft boats that were manually poled or towed through the canal.

 

            Today the Great Dismal Swamp Canal is very scenic -- a narrow channel only 70’ wide, heavily lined with trees and brush.  Grapevines, honeysuckle, and other vines creep over, around and up the shrubs and trees filling the air with their fragrance.  Since we were the only boat for miles, the water was like glass, trees and shrubs reflecting a mirror image on the surface as we slowly and carefully motored, keeping a sharp lookout for logs.  We heard one “thunk,” but no damage was done. 

 

            In retrospect, the Great Dismal Swamp Canal did not meet up to our expectations.  It was merely a straight cut with the tree-lined banks.  The river section before the canal was actually more scenic than the canal and more of what we expected.  There’s just something about a snaky, winding, meandering river with cypress trees growing right in the water.  The mystery of what’s around the bend keeps calling to us.

 

            We tied up overnight to a free dock right before the Deep Creek Bridge and Lock.  A Food Lion grocery was just across the street -- so this was a convenient stop.

Mm 10 Dismal Swamp Canal Route                 40.8 miles traveled today

 

 

TUESDAY, 6/7

            The 0830 scheduled lockage at Deep Creek sent one small boat going South and then the lockmaster called us into the lock for our turn.  The solo lockage north took 35 minutes -- a bit faster than the 54 minutes it took us to lock through South Mills with four other sailboats.  That lockage took 54 minutes -- it was hot and humid and seemed to take forever!

 

            Leaving the lock, we had a few more miles of Swamp and then the industrial Elizabeth River at Norfolk and Portsmouth.  As we passed the Norfolk Naval Shipyard, the Mate counted over 20 cranes in the area.  Farther upriver, at the naval base, we saw over 20 navy ships -- aircraft carriers, submarines and transports.

 

            This is probably the busiest harbor we have been in thus far.  The radio was constantly broadcasting boats hailing marinas and other ships, bridges announcing closings or openings, naval ships warning of their movements, Coast Guard personnel giving security announcements, ships with divers down warning boats to stay away, and SeaTow hailing tankers.  Helicopters flew over the naval base while small runabouts patrolled the restricted waters in front of the carriers and subs.  Huge tankers were anchored in the channel.  Enormous cargo ships steamed down the river with containerized cargo stacked ten high on the deck.  Pleasure craft, cruisers, and sailboats motored up and down and across the river.  It was busy!

 

            We motored across the bay from Portsmouth to Hampton, VA to the Bluewater Yachting Center.  ECCO was having a Camano Rendezvous Tuesday through Thursday.  We thought we would be farther north at this time, but just happened to be in this area where it was scheduled.  So we made it.  Three days of talking Camanos, cruising and anchorages.  Can life get any better?!

 

Bluewater Yachting Center Tuesday - Friday               

25.8 miles traveled today.

 

 

FRIDAY, 6/10

            0840 cast off from Bluewater Yachting Center.  Waved goodbye to the Camano captains and mates still at the dock.  What a great three days of meeting new friends, sharing cruising and Camano information, ideas, anchorages and stories.  Twenty one “cute little boats” AKA Camanos sat at the docks; eight more stayed home but their captains and mates attended.  The crew from three of the Camanos helped mark our charts with anchorages and places to see in the Chesapeake.  We have many more anchorages than we have time to visit this year and decided a return trip to cruise the Chesapeake is on the agenda some time.

 

            0900 Arrived at Bluewater Boatyard to drop off the Westerbeke generator.  The day before the Captain arranged with them to take the genset off the boat and ship it back to Westerbeke.  However, after seeing how heavy it was and how awkward to lift, the boatyard sang a new tune ... “Can’t do it ... Need a work order ... Have to crate it....”  So the Captain called Engines One, the regional rep for this area.  We backtracked the 13 miles to their location in Portsmouth to drop it off there.  This genset is going off our boat kicking and screaming!

 

            1100 docked at Western Branch Deisel, Engines One’s waterside location.  Three mechanics and the Captain hefted and heaved the errant generator up, out of the cockpit and onto the dock.  HOORAY!  That genset was finally off the WE BE BLEST III.  The Mate snapped a picture of the Captain kissing it “good bye and good riddance!” 

 

            The crew set the generator on a dolly with the cables, crank, and spare parts and the funeral procession of four slowly walked off the dock as they pushed the cart to the shop.  Soon to be set in a “casket,” AKA shipping container, they will send it off to Westerbeke heaven -- no probably Westerbeke hell!  The mechanics were very familiar with this little suitcase model and the other Camano owner who had a third one installed recently.  His latest one, is still working .... So far!

 

            Thus closes the final chapter of the deliverance of the WE BE BLEST III from the curse of the 3.8 Westerbeke generator.  She is free at last.  Ahhh!  The Captain walked back to the WE BE BLEST with a smile on his face as broad as the Chesapeake!

 

            The Epilogue of this saga is yet to be completed.  “The check is in the mail,” Bob from corporate told the Captain after receiving our signed release.  We should have it next week.  Stay tuned for the closing episode.

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