7345 Charger/Converter conversion to 3-stage Progressive Dynamics PD9160A Charger/Converter
In the described procedure below, the
lower charger/converter section of a Parallax/Magnetek 7345 system is replaced with a 3-stage Progressive Dynamics Model PD9160A
Charger/Converter along with the Charge Wizard option.
Of all of the various units available
from Progressive Dynamics, the PD9160A was chosen because its smaller size and dimensions fit well into the emptied lower
case of the 7345 and provides sufficient space on the right end to allow good air movement for the cooling blower.
Before starting any of this modification work, make sure of two things. First, make sure that your RV is not connected
to any shoreline AC power and also verify that the coach generator is not running. And second, disconnect the (-) negative
terminal lead to your coach batteries. If you have two or more coach batteries, make sure that the negative (-)
terminal leads to all batteries are disconnected.
1) T10 Torx screwdriver
T15 Torx screwdriver
3) Medium size flat blade screwdriver
4) Medium size Phillips screwdriver
6) 5/16” nut driver
7) 3/8” nut driver
8) 5/32” Allen wrench
9) AMP Super Champ terminal
crimping tool (or equivalent)
10) Waldon HT1921 wire stripping tool (or equivalent)
11) Diamond MS543J wire clippers
12) 3/8” AC or DC electric drill
13) #11 wire size or 3/16” drill bit
14) #7 wire size
or 13/64” drill bit
15) 3/8” drill bit (or deburring tool)
16) 100 degree counter sinking bit
Tool Co. metal nibbler tool (or equivalent)
18) RECOMMENDED BUT NOT
REQUIRED: DC Digital Voltmeter with at least 0.25% accuracy
1) 15” length of black #8
AWG battery cable
2) 17.5” length of red #8 AWG battery cable
3) Qty 1 AMP blue crimp ring tongue terminal for
#14 AWG Wire and #10 stud hole
4) Qty 1 AMP red crimp ring tongue terminal for #8 AWG Wire and #10 stud hole
2 AMP blue 1⁄4” male spade type crimp terminals
6) Qty 5 #6 x 3/8" Phillips oval head sheet metal screws
Qty 3 AN507-1032R12 or MS24693-274 (or equivalent) #10 x 3⁄4” long countersunk flat head Phillips screws
Qty 3 AN363-428 or AN364-428 #10 self-locking nuts
9) Qty 1 #10 internal
stack lock washer
A) Reference Photo
Using a T10 Torx screwdriver, remove the 4 lower brown torx screws. Then unlatch the upper-hinged door latch
and remove this door and cover and set aside along with the 4 screws.
B) Reference Photo
1) Using either a flat blade screwdriver or a 5/16” nut driver, remove and retain the four lower screws shown
in the locations with the red here.
2) Then use a 3/8” nut driver to remove
and retain the two screws shown in the locations with the yellow here fastening the metal
cover plate over the 5 AC circuit breakers.
3) Then use a 5/16” nut driver to remove and retain the two screws
shown in the locations with the blue here fastening the DC distribution/fuse circuit panel.
C) Reference Photo
D) Reference Illustration #41) Refer to both Photo # 3 and Illustration #4.
2) Use a screwdriver to disconnect the large white #10 AWG (-)
DC wire from the lower right backside corner metal terminal of the DC distribution/fuse circuit panel. This terminal is the same Terminal “D” Battery Negative shown in Illustration #4 except is
located on the backside of this panel.
3) Use a 5/16” nut driver and Phillips screwdriver to remove the
large blue #10 AWG (+) DC wire terminal from the #10 Blue Feeder Connection. Temporarily reinstall the removed hardware
(nut, screw and washers) back into this hole on the metal plate in the same order as removed.
4) Refer to Photo #4
for picture of disconnected results.
E) Reference Photo
1) This photo shows these two blue and white DC wires disconnected.
2) Now unplug the black and white AC leads
at their blue terminal connectors from the extreme front right side corner of the lower charger/converter section. The
black #14 AWG lead is the hot side 115 VAC, 60 Hz input to the converter from either the shoreline power or the generator.
The white #14 AWG lead is the neutral side 115 VAC, 60 Hz power connection.
3) Gently pull the disconnected #10 AWG
white and blue DC leads down thru the black plastic grommet so that they are free from the upper section of the system.
Carefully pull the lower charger/converter section out of its mounting location approximately an inch or two.
gently pull the disconnected #14 AWG white and black AC leads up thru the black plastic grommet so that they are free from
the lower section of the system.
F) Reference Photo #5
Along the top forward edge and near the front of the chassis note that the two black and white AC leads are fastened with
two white nylon retaining clips. Carefully remove both leads from both of these clips so as to not damage them. They
will to be reused latter to re-fasten these same two leads.
2) Now the converter/charger section can be completely
removed from the system. Photo #5 shows this section removed.
G) Reference Photo
1) This is a photo of the removed lower converter/charger section. The innards
of this system will now be removed and this case modified and prepared to mount the new Progressive Dynamics PD9160A Charger/Converter.
H) Reference Photo
1) Using a #11 drill bit, drill out the 5 rivets fastening the top cover to the main chassis of the Parallax/Magnetek
charger/converter section. Drill just deep enough to take the head off of the rivets. Do not drill too deep and enlarge
any of the holes in either the top cover or the chassis itself.
2) Then using the same #11 drill bit, drill
out the 2 long rivets fastening the cooling blower to the top cover being removed. Leave the wire screen covering the
fan ventilation hole in the top cover in place.
I) Reference Photo
Top cover removed from main chassis and with cooling blower also unfastened is shown in Photo #8.
J) Reference Photo
1) In this procedure the internal electronics of the charger/converter section will be completely removed from it’s
chassis and discarded.
2) An internal metal plate along with the circuit board must be removed from the chassis. To
remove the metal plate, use a #7 drill bit to drill out a total of five rivets, two on the right side of the chassis identified
with a red here shown in Photo #9 and three more on the bottom of the chassis.
Then remove quantity eight T15 Torx screws holding the green circuit board to the bottom of the chassis.
4) Also, drill
out from the bottom side of the chassis a white nylon expansion rivet holding the center of the circuit board to the chassis.
Then remove the charger/converter electronics from the chassis.
K) Reference Photo #10
charger/converter electronics to be discarded shown in Photo #10.
L) Reference Photo
Photo #11 shows the bare chassis now ready for modifications necessary to mount in the new Progressive Dynamics PD9160A
Charger/Converter. The eight threaded spacer standoffs used to mount the green circuit board are retained - they do
not need to be removed.
M) Reference Photo
1) Photo #12 shows the bottom of the chassis with the open front of the chassis facing forward towards the bottom of
2) Mark the position of three holes to be drilled in the bottom of the chassis in the three locations as
shown marked with a green felt tip pen. Carefully measure the hole locations using
the dimensions shown in Photo #12. The dimensions are all from the precise edges of the chassis.
these three hole locations are correctly determined, indent the three locations with a drill punch.
4) Using a #11
drill bit, carefully drill a hole at each of these three locations. Deburr the three holes by hand with a 3/8”
5) Using the 100 degree countersink bit, countersink these three holes from the bottom so that a #10 countersunk
flat head screw will fit flush with the bottom of the case. This step is important for the case to mount and fit
properly back into the system.
N) Reference Photo
1) The new Progressive Dynamic PD9160A Charger/Converter will now be modified to install in the chassis.
Prepare 15” length of black #8 AWG battery cable and 17.5” length of red #8 AWG battery cable by stripping off
3/8” of insulation from both ends of both the red and black cables.
3) Insert a stripped end of the red cable
into one of the two (+) terminal receptacles and tighten with 5/32” Allen wrench not to exceed 50 lb-in of torque.
Insert a stripped end of the black cable into one of the two (-) terminal receptacles and tighten with the allen tool not
to exceed 50 lb-in of torque.
5) Take the AC power cord with 3-prong plug on the end and measure the cord from the
grommet where the cord enters the chassis of the unit. Carefully measure off a 16” length of this cord from the
chassis end and cut the cord at this point and discard the free end of the cord.
6) Carefully strip off 2.0”
of the outer jacket insulation on the end of this cord.
7) Then carefully strip off ¼”
of insulation from the white, black, and green leads protruding from this end of the cord.
8) Install and properly
crimp on two ¼” wide male spade terminals on the white and black leads. These two spade terminals must be compatible
with the existing two female terminals on the ends of the black and white AC power leads shown in the lower right corner of
9) Install and properly crimp on the blue AMP #14 AWG terminal with a #10 stud size hole in it onto the remaining
Reference Photo #14
1) In this next procedure, the Progressive Dynamic PD9160A Charger/Converter will
now be mounted in the previously modified chassis. Refer to Photo #14.
2) The PD9160A has three slotted holes
on its metal bottom plate. With the PD9160A inserted into the chassis firmly against the left side and back walls of the mounting
chassis, insert two AN507-1032R12 (or equivalent) screws from the bottom up thru the two slotted holes on the left side of
the PD9160A. Then install and tighten lightly two #10 self-locking nuts on these two screws.
3) Then insert a third
AN507-1032R12 screw up thru the one remaining slotted hole on the right side of the PD9160A. Then install a #10 internally
stacked lock washer on the protruding end of this screw.
4) Insert the AMP terminal on the end of the power cord green
lead onto this screw on top of the lock washer.
5) Finally, install and tighten a #10 self-locking nut onto this screw
with just enough torque to cause light deflection of the bottom plate of the PD9160A around the slotted hole area.
Then tighten the two #10 nuts on the left side with just enough torque to cause light deflection of the bottom plate of the
PD9160A around the slotted hole area.
7) Dress the AC power cord above and near the rear of the PD9160A.
The result should be what you see in Photo #14 above.
8) Install the Progressive Dynamics Charge Wizard P/N PD9105
by inserting the connector on the end of it's cable into the PD9160A per the factory instructions provided.
Coil up the excess length of the Charge Wizard cord using provided wire wraps as shown in Photo #15 so that approximately
a 10" length of cord attached to Charge Wizard itself sticks out of mounting case.
P) Reference Photo
1) Install the top cover to the chassis using quantity five #6 x 3/8" Phillips head sheet metal screws
though the photo shows the red and black battery cables passing thru the plastic grommet located on the front right corner
of the top cover - do not dress those cables thru that grommet hole yet at this time.
1) With the red and black battery cables and the Charge Wizard cable sticking out of the front opening
of the mounting case, slide the case into the bottom of the system until leaving the case sticking out approximately 1.5 inches.
Attach the #14 AWG white and black AC leads under the two white nylon retaining clips located along the top front edge of
the case in same manner as previously attached. Make sure that these two leads
run parallel to each other and do not cross each other.
3) Then pass these two leads down thru the black plastic grommet
located in the front right corner of the case cover.
4) Plug together the black AC power lead from above with the female
¼” spade terminal into the corresponding male ¼” spade terminal on the black lead from the PD9160A power cord.
5) Plug together in a similar manner the two white AC power leads.
6) Then fully insert the PD9160A charger/converter
case into the system mount and install and tighten the 4 mounting screws using the 5/16” nut driver.
insert the free end of the black #8 AWG battery cable up thru both of the black plastic grommets and insert the stripped end
of the black cable into the back side Terminal D Battery Negative terminal on the DC distribution/fuse circuit panel as shown
in Illustration #4. Make sure that all of the wire strands are fully inserted into this terminal and then tighten securely
with a flat blade screw driver.
8) Carefully insert
the free end of the red #8 AWG battery cable up thru both of the black plastic grommets and behind the DC distribution/fuse
circuit panel. With the red cable sticking out of and above this panel as far a possible, install and crimp on securely
the AMP Blue Crimp Terminal for #8 AWG Wire and #10 stud. Crimp this terminal on the red battery cable in such a position
that the terminal can be fastened to the back side of the #10 Blue Feeder Connection on the DC distribution/fuse circuit panel
as shown in Illustration #4.
9) Now route this red cable to the right side and above the metal mounting bracket
for this panel with the red cable passing through the U shaped slot near the top of this bracket. This metal bracket can be
viewed located behind the blue #10 AWG cable in Photo #16A below.
R) Reference Photo #16A
10) Bend as necessary this large terminal so that it will fit and connect properly to the #10 Blue Feeder Connection.
Then remove the #10 Blue Feeder Connection hardware and connect the red cable terminal to the metal back plate of this
panel. Make sure that the #10 internal stack lock washer is placed between the red cable terminal and the metal plate
and tighten the hardware securely.
11) Carefully dress both black and red battery cables so that when the DC distribution/fuse
circuit panel as shown in Illustration #4 is folded back and attached to its mounting bracket that the cables do not cause
excessive force against the panel nor are the cables pinched against anything.
12) As the panel is carefully
folding back into place against it’s mounting bracket, it probably will be necessary and desirable to carefully pull
some of the excess length of both the red and black cables back down into the lower PD9160A converter/charger case.
Once it is determined that the red and black cables are attached, routed and dressed properly, then attach and secure the
panel to the it’s mounting bracket with the two mounting screws previously removed.
14) The results should look
like Photo #16.
S) Reference Photo
1) In order to locate the Charge Wizard outside of the system enclosure, it is necessary to notch a corner out
of the hinged door of the system. Refer to Photo #17.
2) Use the
ADEL Tool Co. metal nibbler tool (or equivalent) to notch out ¼” x ¼” of the metal on the hinged cover
as shown. This area is on the lower right side of the hinged door right next to the hinge.
3) After this
cover/door assembly is modified, attach it back onto the system with the 4 brown colored torx screws previously removed. Make
sure that the cord for the Charge Wizard passes thru this notch in the cover in a manner that will not pinch or cut this cable
as the door is opened and closed in the future.
1) With the door to the system closed and latched use the fastening tape provided on the back
side of the Charge Wizard to attach it to the upper right corner of the door as shown in Photo #18.
1) Reattach (-) negative battery terminal
leads to all coach batteries.
2) Connect the coach to AC shoreline power.
3) Make sure that the battery
cut off switch in the driver’s foot well area is turned on.
4) Using an accurate DC voltmeter attached to the
(+) and (-) coach battery terminals, place the Charge Wizard in all three of it's modes per the manufacturer's instructions.
The voltmeter readings below assume that the coach
batteries are already fully or nearly fully charged.
5) In the BOOST mode with the green indicator on the Charge Wizard
showing a solid indication, the voltmeter should show +14.4 VDC.
6) In the NORMAL mode with the green indicator on
the Charge Wizard flashing about once per second, the voltmeter should show +13.6 VDC.
7) In the STORAGE mode with
the green indicator on the Charge Wizard flashing slowly approximately once every 5 seconds, the voltmeter should show
YOU ARE DONE!
William R. Hemme
Spencer, IA 51301
June 6, 2005
SPECIAL EXTRA PROCEDURES REQUIRED TO CHANGE
OUT A MAGNETEK/PARALLAX 6300 SERIES CHARGER/CONVERTER
1) When removing a 6300 series charger/converter, you will find a AWG #10 blue wire was
connected to the top center terminal on the upper fuse panel (the #10 blue Feeder Connection shown in Illustration #4 above).
A AWG #10 red wire was connected to the upper right corner terminal (Terminal
"C" Battery Positive) and a AWG #10 white wire was connected to the lower right corner terminal (Terminal "D" Battery Negative)
on the fuse panel.
2) The blue wire previously supplied the left side 6 fused circuits
with unfiltered +12 VDC power and the red wire previously supplied the right side 3 fused circuits with filtered +12 VDC power.
The white wire supplied the (-) neutral connection between the fuse panel and the old charger/converter section.
3) If the connections to this older style fuse board are left done as instructed
above for the removed 7345 converter/charger, only the left side 6 fused circuits will will work and the right side 3 fused
circuits will no longer have +12 VDC power to them.
4) This can be rectified by either of two methods.
Method A: Remove the existing split circuit type fuse board assembly and
replace it with a new fuse board assembly where all 9 fused circuits are tied together. Such a new fuse board is available
from BestConverter.com for a cost of $25.00. It can be looked at and ordered from their website address link that follows:
Remember, if using this method, that the new fuse board must be equipped with the
two upper 30-amp fuses that the old board did not have. The remaining fuses can be transferred from the old board to the
Method B: Using a red AWG #10 jumper wire, jumper together the upper center
and upper right side terminals on the existing fuse board. This will tie together the left side 6 circuits and the right
side 3 circuits so that the +12 VDC power coming from the new PD9160A (or PD9160C) Charger/Converter via the red AWG #10 power
cable connected to the top center terminal on the old style fuse panel will now power all 9 fused circuits properly.